Fontainerie Vouvray Demi-Sec 2016

Vouvray is in the central Loire, an area known for its Chenin Blanc planted in an unusual type of soft limestone called tuffeau. Like many in Vouvray, Catherine Dhoye-Deruet’s caves are carved into the tuffeau right below her vines – it’s a unique and remarkable place, and one that can produce terrific wines.

The 2016 Vouvray Demi-Sec was perhaps the most exciting wine at the Fontainerie tasting. At just 20g of residual sugar – compared with, say, 120g for Sauternes – this is barely sweet. In fact the splash of RS serves as just one element among many, along with a burst of stony freshness, clean acidity, and lush tropical fruit. With its near decade in the bottle, the fruit has developed into an extraordinary array of flavors, including raisins, dried mango, baked pear, yellow plum, and others unnamed / unknowable. But the end of the palate finishes with an elegant and vibrant tension. This wine has the sweetness of a lightly sweetened cocktail – think a Tom Collins or Whisky Sour – with the same acidity to balance.