Gautheron Chablis 1er “Fourneaux” 2023

As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.

The Chablis premier cru “Fourneaux” 2023 is from a right-bank vineyard with more clay in the soils. It is also raised entirely in stainless steel, but the additional clay makes the wine more easily accessible, with a palate of rounder mouthfeel before a mineral finish with refreshing salinity. Jasper Morris awarded four stars, calling it “understated yet fine.”