Giroux Pouilly-Loché “Bûcher” 2021

Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and meticulous winemaker making superb wines of understatement and precision. If some Maconnais whites can verge into overripeness in warm years, Sebastien’s are entirely devoid of heaviness. His careful winemaking – low sulfur, minimal oak, extremely long elevage – results in minimalist wines of precision and grace. Think Thomas Morey Puligny an hour south.

The Pouilly-Loché “Au Bucher” is from 2021, a cool vintage that lends itself well to Sebastien’s understated style. This comes from 75 year old vines, and though it’s a less well-known terroir than Pouilly-Fuissé, the old vines and careful oaking mean this well overperforms its appellation. Look for green apples and white flowers, with intensely channeled fruit and a clean stony finish.