Gros Bourgogne Côte d’Or 2023

Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to beginner’s luck. His father Michel is never far away with ready counsel and advice, but this is Pierre’s ship now, and he’s steering it beautifully. Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and his wines are clean and pure – they sport the same polish as his fathers’ with perhaps a bit more concentration of fruit and slightly longer finishes.

Gros’s Bourgogne Côte d’Or comes from vines just outside his hometown – in this case Vosne-Romanée. It’s middleweight and pretty, with red currants and violets in the nose; the mouth has mild tannins and a pleasant earthy and floral finish. Burghound found it “quite aromatically pretty,” with a mouthfeel that’s “supple, succulent, and round.” It drinks effortlessly from the start, and however much we set aside for ourselves, we always wish it were more.