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 | The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “Clos des Varoilles” is a powerhouse of a red… More (+) The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “Clos des Varoilles” is a powerhouse of a red Burgundy. Grown in a 6 hectare vineyard (enormous by Burgundy standards), the wine shows grand-cru level intensity. Our notes show dark cassis fruit in the nose, along with licorice and gingerbread spices. In the mouth is enormous and very long -- the tannins are bold and bursting, a sign that the wine will live for decades to come.
Allen Meadows (Burghound) agreed with our assessment, awarding 91-93 points and finding a nose of “plum, anise, floral and earth aromas,” with “excellent size, weight and concentration” and “big-bodied and powerful flavors.” Less (-) Free US Shipping | |
 | Transition to organics/biodynamics may be trendy in winemaking today, but it’s nothing new at… More (+) Transition to organics/biodynamics may be trendy in winemaking today, but it’s nothing new at the Domaine Pierre André in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Jacqueline André’s grandfather stopped using chemicals in his vines in 1963, and the domaine has been certified organic since 1980 – the first in the appellation.
As it turns out, he was on to something -- those vines are now 140 years old, and continue to produce every year. Today Jacqueline André and her son craft the fruit of these ancient “grand dammes” (as they call them) into a single magnificent wine. No luxury batch or cuvée speciale here -- just one red, outstanding year in and year out.
One of each cuvée: 2020, 2021, 2022
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 | BURGHOUND (88-91): This also displays enough wood to notice but it’s a bit more… More (+) BURGHOUND (88-91): This also displays enough wood to notice but it’s a bit more completely integrated on the dark berry fruit liqueur-like nose that evidences plenty of earth and humus influence. The ripe and lightly mineral inflected medium weight flavors possess a velvety mouth feel as well as fine volume, all wrapped in a very solidly complex, balanced and lingering finish where a touch of wood resurfaces. A very good Nuits villages. Less (-) Free US Shipping | |
 | Now 18 years on from harvest, this wine is old enough to vote (no… More (+) Now 18 years on from harvest, this wine is old enough to vote (no word on its political preferences), but it’s remarkably youthful. We recently enjoyed one of the last magnums of our 2002 from Bardoux, which was mature and delicious but not the least bit tired. The 2004 vintage produced wines with a bit more structure, and these recently disgorged magnums have the capacity for plenty of additional cellaring.
The blend is 20% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, and 50% Chardonnay, with an 8g/L dosage. The nose is terrific, with woodsy, savory notes alongside the pear fruit. In the mouth is chalky and fine, with an astonishing level of vibrancy for its age. Look for notes of rhubarb, cooked apples and raspberry across a beautifully textured palate. Less (-) Free US Shipping | |
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 | Finally the Boursot family’s gem is their plot of 75+ year-old vines in “Les Fuées,”… More (+) Finally the Boursot family’s gem is their plot of 75+ year-old vines in “Les Fuées,” the Chambolle 1er cru abutting the iconic Bonne Mares Grand Cru. Planted by Romaric and Romault’s grandfather in the 1940s, the vines produce low yields of extremely intense, powerful wine. Add that to a famously rich terroir and a deep, concentrated vintage and you have the makings of seriously impressive wine. If the village wine will benefit from time, the Fuées will need it; but we expect a very bright future. The nose is inky and expansive, with rose petals, baking spices, dried flowers and cassis. The mouth is bold and muscled with remarkable length. “A very classy bottle – the finish is superb,” writes Bill Nanson. Less (-) Free US Shipping | |
 | Vincent Boyer and his sister Sophie are the winemakers at this gem of an… More (+) Vincent Boyer and his sister Sophie are the winemakers at this gem of an estate in Meursault. They farm a mouthwatering collection of vines in and around Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, including all three famous Meursault premier crus. They farm organically, and use a long elevage in barrels then concrete eggs to give their wines a regal depth and complexity. These are some of our favorite white Burgundies from anywhere.
Boyer’s Meursault 1er Charmes, usually the fattest and richest of the bunch, is excellent again this year. The nose is deeply floral with notes of pear and stones. The mouth is fresher and more vibrant than usual this year, with a touch of sucrocité balanced on a beam of tension. Burghound similarly found “excellent energy” and a “tension-filled, linear finish.” He counsels drinking after 2030, but given how well the 2022s are drinking already (“difficult to resist” says Vincent himself), this will be terrific even next year. Less (-) Free US Shipping | |
| BURGHOUND (89-91): The spicier aromas of dark currant, newly turned earth and game nuances… More (+) BURGHOUND (89-91): The spicier aromas of dark currant, newly turned earth and game nuances to shine. The medium weight flavors are not quite as dense but they’re more refined thanks to the finer-grain of the supporting tannins on the lightly mineral-inflected finale. Note that even though the tannins are finer they’re also denser and this too will need a few years first Less (-) Free US Shipping |
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