Muscle. Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest appellation of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. And because of its clay rich soils, its wines are of a similarly grand scale. Known for power and longevity, Gevrey-Chambertin often shows dark, intense fruit and a sturdy tannic structure.
Gérard Quivy’s vines in his tiny two-acre En Champs vineyard date to around 1945, or just after VE Day. The yield from these vines has dropped significantly in the decades since, but the quality of their fruit has improved each year. Quivy’s style is silkiness and elegance, which harmonizes well with Gevrey’s typical muscular fruit.
Cinnamon. This year’s Guide Hachette, the premier French language wine guide, describes Quivy as “undoubtedly one of the reference points in the appellation.” This helps confirm what our noses told us last summer — Quivy is an uncommon and exceptional find.
The 2012 En Champs is beautifully expressive in the nose: notes of charcoal, toast, and graham cracker join dense jammy red fruit. In the mouth it is typically Gevrey: plenty of ripe tannin alongside pleasant young briary fruit. As with Quivy’s other village level Gevrey “Journaux,” additional patience will be rewarded, but isn’t required — today this is handsome, crisp young Burgundy in unusually elegant dress.
Decant this for an hour or more, serve near room temperature, and pair with skirt steaks.
QUIVY Gevrey-Chambertin “Champs” 2012
Ansonia Retail: $50
AVAILABLE IN 3- 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.