“Overperforming” Five-Year-Old Red Burgundy from Michel Gros.

In Burgundy, as in real estate, location is everything. Each town has its own character, and each produces a unique wine. The appellation lines drawn by monks centuries ago remain remarkably accurate today. But as you might expect, near the border between two appellations the characteristics often blur.

It’s from one of these transitional zones that today’s wine hails. The label says “Nuits-St-Georges,” and the wine displays the meaty richness for which the town is known. But the specific plots are very near the border with Vosne-Romanée, and this wine borrows a bit of the elegance and spice from its famous neighbor.

Some might say the wine doesn’t perfectly represent either village. We think it’s an elegant and delightful marriage of the two.



Michel Gros lives and works in Vosne-Romanée, but he’s a masterful winemaker regardless of the appellation. In 2012, very low yields made for wines of unusual depth and concentration. Today’s wine combines intense fruit with Gros’s signature style: an enticing bouquet of redcurrants and licorice. In the mouth it’s silky and dense, showing cassis, toast, plum, and just a hint of spice.

Jancis Robinson listed Gros as one of five “overperforming” red Burgundy producers in 2012. Burghound (Allen Meadows) called the 2012 Nuits “appealingly fresh,” and “very round,” finding “excellent richness.” With four years in the bottle, it has begun to drink extraordinarily well (though it will improve over another 3-4 years in the cellar, if you can keep your hands off it).

Today, after just a few minutes in a carafe or decanter, this wine will transport you to the Burgundy of centuries ago — think woven tapestries, roasted meats, and ancient stone chateaux. Speaking of roasted meats, this bottle matches perfectly with a steak.



Michel Gros Nuits-St-Georges 2012

Ansonia Retail: $70
3+ bottle price : $62/bot


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