Chardonnay is responsible for all of Burgundy’s finest white wines. But 10% of white wine vineyards in Burgundy are Aligoté, a less celebrated grape that produces simple, refreshing wines. Aligoté is seldom magnificent, but in the hands of the right winemaker it can be delicious.
Boyer-Martenot’s Aligoté is unlike any other we’ve had, with a rich mouthfeel and unusually complex bouquet. Vincent Boyer, a highly skilled craftsman of rich, elegant Meursault, has managed to apply a bit of his magic to this grape. Forget what you know about Aligoté — Boyer’s is real white Burgundy.
From vines with an average age over 40 years, and an excellent vintage, Boyer’s Aligoté is smoother and rounder than most. The secret is his use of 5- and 7-year-old barrels to age the wine — barrels too old to impart much oak flavor, but which help microoxygenation and add softness and depth.
In the nose Boyer’s Aligoté shows wild honey and herbs, with white flowers and classic green apple. The mouth is bright and lively, with a dry, chalky richness that’s nearly unheard of for Aligoté. This is a perfect and versatile white for spring; and for readers interested in making kir, we have an exceptional crème de cassis.
But for this wine, the cassis isn’t mandatory — it is a crisp, pleasant glass of white Burgundy on its own.
Boyer-Martenot Aligoté 2016
Ansonia Retail: $24
6+ bottle price : $19/bot
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