Extraordinary 12-Year-Old Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

The Clos de Vougeot is a 900-year-old Grand Cru vineyard in the heart of Burgundy. It’s the largest Grand Cru in the region, and certainly the most famous. Over nine centuries of growing seasons, it has seen kings and countries rise and fall.

Because of its size and number of owners (82 at last count), its wines vary widely in quality, from underperforming to extraordinary. Michel Gros’s cuvée sits firmly in the latter category — he’s the vineyard’s smallest landholder, but his handful of vines are in its most prestigious neighborhood: the Grand Maupertuis.

This is Burgundy at its most classic — an ancient vineyard, a storied winemaker, and already a decade plus under its belt.

We rarely offer Gros’s Clos de Vougeot, only because we’ve rarely any to sell. But to start the year off right, we’ve found (almost) a case of the 2006. We opened a bottle a few months ago and it’s unmistakably special wine.

The nose combines the floral aspects of nearby Vosne-Romanée with bolder tannins more reminiscent of Gevrey-Chambertin. The mouthfeel is intense and muscly, with earthy notes and dark briary fruit. The finish is long and rich. Burghound called it “powerful… rich, full, and intense.”

This wine is hardly an everyday value, but it’s an extraordinary find. When you open the bottle, imagine the centuries and generations that contributed to its contents — a small piece of history waiting for your corkscrew.



Michel Gros Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2006
bottle price: $195

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