Masterful 2017 Red Burgundy: a Grand Cru Neighbor under $60

By Burgundy standards, Gevrey-Chambertin is an enormous appellation. It covers a thousand acres, including a whopping 135 acres of Grand Cru. Its wines are of a similar scale — rich, meaty, bold Pinot Noir balancing delicacy and depth.

Many of Burgundy’s best value wines come from vineyards just over the border from the iconic names. We often write about Domaine Amiot’s “Combottes,” a premier cru Gevrey vineyard surrounded by Grand Crus. Today we’re suggesting a Amiot’s village-level Gevrey, a similarly well located plot at a remarkable price.

Pierre Amiot’s village level Gevrey comes from two plots bordering the famous Grand Cru Charmes-Chambertin. The Grand Cru will run you $200-$300; (and we think Combottes is a bargain at $92). But Amiot’s village-level wine just from feet away doesn’t even crack $60.

Amiot is a small scale, fifth generation winemaker in Morey-St-Denis. In a good year they make 100 cases of their village level Gevrey, making it one of their smallest volume cuvées. Most of Amiot’s wines come from Morey-St-Denis, a town known for its finesse and minerality — the Amiots have mastered the art of drawing subtle elegance from Burgundian Pinot Noir.

Apply this delicate touch to neighboring Gevrey’s bold terroir, and the resulting wines are simply captivating. Amiot’s 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin is dark, meaty and bursting with smooth inky fruit. Look for spiced plums, cassis, blackberry, and woods. It should age nicely for 3-4 years, but drink beautifully today.

French wine writers have taken to calling the 2017 Burgundies “restaurant wines” — plentiful, approachable, sturdy, and delicious from the start. Here’s a restaurant wine for your home kitchen — pour it from a carafe as you welcome the return of that crisp autumn air at last.


Amiot Gevrey-Chambertin 2017
bottle price: $55

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