“Quintessential” Chablis: 90 point Unoaked White Burgundy. $26

White Burgundy makes an excellent “by the glass” wine for your house. It pairs with a wide range of foods, and with no food at all — an essential component to a well-stocked cellar. Think of it as wine’s Swiss Army Knife, useful in far more often than predicted.

Jean Collet’s entry level Chablis is particularly versatile, with enough freshness to match veal and mushrooms in a cream sauce, but enough ripeness for a glass after a long day of work. Collet’s 2017 Chablis is even better than usual, from a year with perfect balance between ripeness and tension.

The Wine Advocate’s excellent new Burgundy reviewer William Kelley called this “well worth seeking out,” awarding 90 points, and calling it “glossy and textural, with good concentration, racy acids, and a long, delineated finish.” He goes on to say “the combination of ripe fruit with quintessentially Chablisien cut and tension is compelling.” Kelley named it one of his “six great values on the market.”

We agree and are pleased to have some left in stock. The nose is clean, pure, and precise, showing pear and stones. The mouth is brisk and lively but also intense and smooth, with an enticing roundness punctuated by vibrant minerality. With entertaining season upon us, it’s as useful as a good pocket knife.

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Collet Chablis 2017
bottle price: $26

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