Winemaker: The Salomon-Undhof estate dates to 1792, and is currently on its 7th and 8th generation winemakers, father and son Bert and Bert Salomon. Their terraced vines overlooking the Danube have long been an excellent source, with the country’s preeminent wine guide calling them a “figurehead of Austrian wine history.” Their style is what you’d expect after 225 years of history — clean, polished, and refined.
Varietal: Austria is best known for its Grüner-Veltliner, but Salomon also produces some terrific Riesling. This is bone dry, made from 30-50 year old vines — concentrated and intense. Dry riesling like this is a perfect food wine — think breaded fish or veal.
Wine: We found the 2018 Riesling Ried Kögl magnificent. It offers gorgeous dry fruit rippling with tension and minerals — everything that dry Riesling can (and should) be. We were pleased to discover that the Wine Advocate’s reviewer had a similar reaction. Awarding 93 points, he called it a “perfectly ripe and lush, remarkably balanced Riesling classic,” both “highly attractive and with excellent aging potential.” He concluded, “Well structured, the finish is pure, salty-piquant and reveals lovely grip and tension as well as stimulating salinity, while the fleshy fruit remains.” Wine of this caliber for less than $25/bot is unheard of — don’t let the skinny bottle scare you away.
Salomon-Undhof Riesling “Ried Kögl” 2018
bottle price: $24
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