Bold, Vibrant New 2018 Michel Gros Bourgogne. $34

The mark of a skilled winemaker is the quality of his humblest wine.

The 2018 vintage was a hot one across France, and in Burgundy it produced bold wines with broad shoulders and impressive density. The wines may be light on Burgundy’s signature elegance and precision, but they more than make up for it with gusto and pluck.

Great winemakers make excellent wines from even the humblest terroir. Michel Gros is famous for his fine, high-end red Burgundies, and we can’t recommend them enough. But for everyday enjoyment, Gros’s simpler wines show the class of much fancier bottles.

Gros’s Bourgogne 2018 is bold, muscly and delicious. It’s richer than usual — lots of dark smoky fruit over present nicely integrated tannins. There’s far more complexity here than most reds at the Bourgogne level. Look for raspberry and plum, and an earthy, complex palate. Vinous found “bright red cherry, bilberry and light black olive” with “chalky tannins” and “vivid blueberry and strawberry fruit.”

We expect Gros’s 2018s to make lots of friends over the coming years. But this one requires no patience, with its juicy texture and dense, mouth filling fruit. Gros’s fancier wines are certainly worth your time, but for an entry level red Burgundy, it doesn’t get classier than this.

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Gros Bourgogne 2018
bottle price: $34

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