Thomas Morey is a master of subtlety. Even amid a regional trend towards more tension and less opulence, Morey’s wines stand out as studies in understatement. His family has lived in Chassagne-Montrachet since 1643, and his father Bernard’s wines were considered a reference point for the town. But Thomas’s brand is unmistakable and unique.
His style is one of precision and intensity, extending beyond his wines to the man himself — serious demeanor, closed-cropped hair, wire-rim glasses, Zalto stems in his immaculate tasting room, etc. His judicious use of oak and careful vinification mean that his wines are more sophisticated and less showy than much Chassagne. But their smoothness and ease of enjoyment reveal their true origin.
The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet comes from 7 plots, all on the north side of the village — two of which (15% of the total) are in fact declassified premier crus. The 2019 is pitch perfect, without a hair out of place: a very expressive nose of ripe fruit and a beautifully round and balanced mouthfeel. Look for golden fruits and delicate citrus tension, ripe lemons with maybe a hint of orange. It pairs beautifully with subtle dishes like sole meuniere or butter-poached scallops.
Jasper Morris found both “significant volume of fruit” and “plenty of energy.” Burghound called it “outstanding,” citing “very rich, concentrated and enveloping flavors,” concluding “a very solid Chassagne villages.” This wine drinks well young and ages beautifully too — we’ve yet to cellar a bottle long enough to witness its demise. As usual, we can’t recommend this cuvée enough.
Thomas Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 2019
bottle price: $65
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