Vibrant, Delicious $24 White Burgundy

An elusive Burgundian bargain in Meursault

Vincent Boyer is one of Meursault’s young superstar winemakers. His golden white Burgundies from Meursault and Puligny are among the finest in our cellar. Vinous calls his wines “superb” and “very impressive;” Jasper Morris MW writes “Boyer seems to make better wines year after year.”

Chardonnay is responsible for all of Burgundy’s finest white wines. But 10% of white wine vineyards in Burgundy are Aligoté, a less celebrated grape that produces simple, refreshing wines. Aligoté is seldom magnificent, but in the hands of the right winemaker it can be truly delicious. Today’s is such a wine.

Boyer-Martenot’s Aligoté is unlike any other we’ve had, with a rich mouthfeel and unusually complex bouquet. Through 45+ year old vines and barrel fermentation, Boyer turns this ordinary grape into a smooth, delightful white with notes of wild honey, herbs, flowers, and classic green apple. Burghound found “very good volume” and “concentration and verve,” with notes of “white and yellow orchard fruit.”

Boyer’s Chardonnay Bourgogne blanc is a steal at its level, and drinks like a far fancier wine. Unlike many Aligoté it’s delightful on its own; no cassis needed, though the combination is lovely too. Pair with lobster rolls, steamers, grilled chicken thighs, or an Eventide fish sandwich.

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Boyer-Martenot Aligoté 2018
bottle price: $24

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