We often judge a vigneron’s talent by his simplest wine. Great wines from great terroir of course involve a steady winemaker as guide, but the material undoubtedly provides a head start. With humble fruit from an unsung plot of regional-level vines, winemaking skill comes even more into play.
Our final Futures issue of the year comes out next week. It features some of our most popular winemakers: Gros, Boyer-Martenot, Goubert, and others. Most years we single out Michel Gros’s Bourgogne rouge to preview, but this year we’re just as excited about another wine of a different color.
The 2019 Bourgognes from Boyer-Martenot and Michel Gros are as good as ever, a result of excellent winemaking in a superb vintage. They’ll be presented next week in our October Futures, along with magnificent wines from Burgundy’s most famous appellations: Vosne-Romanée, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chambolle-Musigny, Morey-St-Denis, and more. But in some ways these two are the most impressive performances in the lineups.
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GROS BOURGOGNE ROUGE 2019
Michel’s 2019 Bourgogne rouge is delicious. From an outstanding vintage that provided excellent ripeness laid over well-built tannin, the wine shows both utterly pleasant youthful fruit and masterfully crafted underlying structure. The tannins are smooth and unobtrusive, but provide a perfect armature on which to display the fruit. Look for notes of red berries, earth, and chalk in the nose, with a clean, refreshing finish.
Burghound called the 2019 “fresh and bright,” “vibrant and well-detailed.” As always this requires no patience and should be delicious this fall. Butwe anticipate this vintage in particular will also cellar nicely over a year or two. At under $25/bot with Futures pricing, this is an astonishing value. If you’re in the market for an everyday red Burgundy, your search ends here.
Ansonia Retail: $408
Futures: $295/case
AVAILABLE BY THE CASE AND HALF CASE, EMAIL TOM TO ORDER
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BOYER BOURGOGNE BLANC 2019
Yesterday afternoon we conducted a Zoom tasting of five Boyer-Martenot whites from 2018, ranging from Bourgogne to Meursault 1er cru “Genevrières.” While the premier crus were otherworldly and magnificent, the 2018 Bourgogne blanc more than held its own, and was easily voted the best value in the lineup.
The 2019 Bourgogne from Boyer is even more impressive. It’s more serious and concentrated than the 2018, showing gorgeous ripe sucrocité packed into a dense and delicious package. It’s longer and richer than just about any wine of its level, and shows hints of the white flowers of Meursault (where its vines are found). If we had to pick a single regional white Burgundy in our cellar, it’s this one, no question.
Burghound awarded it both his “Top Value” and “Outstanding” awards, calling it “‘delicious and refreshing,” with “fine depth and length.” We think this well overperforms its $34 retail pricetag; with a Futures price under $25, it’s a steal. Given the concentration and beautiful freshness, this too should continue to drink well for a year or two after arrival.
Ansonia Retail: $408
Futures: $295/case
AVAILABLE BY THE CASE AND HALF CASE, EMAIL TOM TO ORDER