“Delicious” Five-Year-Old Gevrey-Chambertin

Varoilles’s 2017 Gevrey village is user-friendly and hard to put down.

Winemaker Gilbert Hammel is a softspoken man making red Burgundies that are anything but. The town of Gevrey-Chambertin typically produces bold, masculine wine, and the Varoilles style channels this terroir perfectly.

Hammel’s “Clos du Meix des Ouches” is a village level cuvée that drinks more like a premier cru. It’s surrounded by an old wall, which blocks the wind and traps warmth, making its wines particularly round and ripe.

Hammel’s last vintage (the 2019s) are available through January Futures (order deadline Sunday) under their new label, Domaine du Couvent. But today’s wine is in stock and ready to drink.

The nose is lovely, with dark intensity and notes of cherries, cinnamon, and anise. The mouth is smooth and just delicious – hard to put down. As with most 2017s in Burgundy it features welcoming tannins and a beautiful mid-weight palate. The finish is subtle and delicious, with gentle tannins and a careful balancing freshness.

Burghound found “poached plum, forest floor and a whisper of oak,” with “delicious middleweight flavors.” This is a precocious village plot in a user-friendly, early drinking vintage – an impatient Burgundy lover’s delight.


Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin “Meix des Ouches” 2017
bottle price: $85

Add to Cart