Boursot Chambolle-Musigny 1er “Fuées” 2017

Boursot’s top wine is Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru “Fuées,”which, along with Amoureuses, is considered somewhere between Premier Cru and Grand Cru quality. Located next to the famous Grand Cru “Bonnes Marres,” the vineyard produces wines showing what Allen Meadows MW calls “a touch of Morey-St-Denis wildness.”

Boursot’s vines here are 75 years old, and Romaric told us demand is so strong that they can sell a barrel’s worth of grapes at harvest for the same price as a barrel of wine two years later. Fuées marries power and grace in a way that only Chambolle can. The nose is dark and brooding, with cassis, violets, and gingerbread. The mouth is huge and intense — today it’s bold and impressive; in a few years it will be refined, elegant, ethereal, and smooth.