Picamelot Crémant JB Chautard 13

Named for winemaker Philippe Chautard’s grandfather, the cuvée JB Chautard is as close to Champagne as we’ve had outside the region. It’s an 80/20 blend of chardonnay and aligoté, fermented in barrels then left on the lees for a remarkable five years.

The Wine Advocate’s resident Champagne expert calls the 2013 JB Chautard cuvée “a persuasive case for taking [Crémant de Bourgogne] more seriously.” He awarded 90 points, finding “an elegantly fine mousse, good cut and texture and a sapid, complex finish.” The nose shows brioche, nuts, and buttered bread. The mouth is fine, delicate, and very long.