The test of great winemakers is how they perform in the face of adversity. In sunny, dry vintages like 2023, just about everyone made tasty wine. But success in a challenging year speaks far more; and there’s rarely been a more difficult vintage than 2024. Some winemakers struggled, but others excelled; and Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent.
We’ve long been fans of the Desvignes wines, but it was nice to see Vinous’s Neal Martin (a notoriously exacting critic) heap praises on Gautier’s wines – and particularly impressive when his first visit there was to review the 2024s. Gautier is best known for his reds, but he’s also become a real talent in white Givrys – Martin cited “clear evidence of thoughtful winemaking,” and called them “excellent.”
Gautier’s Givry blanc “En Cheneves” is beautiful and very well priced. In 2024 this is dry, linear, and very pretty, with white flowers in the nose and a smooth, fresh, dry mouth. There’s no new oak, and it’s a fresh, lively white Burgundy that might recall a Chablis. Neal Martin found notes of “Cornice pear and a touch of spice,” concluding “makes you dream of a plate of oysters to go with it!”
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Desvignes Givry “En Cheneves” 2024
bottle price: $42
