With baseball here, the thermometer pushing 70, and the Marathon around the corner, it’s finally starting to feel like spring here in Boston. (This is New England, of course, and even typing those words probably risks an April snow storm.) But we’ve turned over the season in our minds and cellars, and eventually Mother Nature will catch up.
Burgundian harvest dates in August were unthinkable only decades ago, but they’re quickly becoming common. In many locations, early harvests make it far more difficult to produce balanced wines; but in parts of Burgundy, at least, there are silver linings.
St-Aubin may not be the secret source for white Burgundy it once was, but it’s not because of the quality. Soaring prices for Burgundy from its famous neighboring towns of Puligny, Chassagne, and Meursault mean that the spillover demand has nudged prices for St-Aubin well. But the quality has more than kept pace, and despite the demise of its anonymity, it’s still a source for exceptional value.
The 2019 vintage is a terrific red Burgundy vintage, producing wines with extraordinary balance between ripe fruit, acidity, and tannin. As Neal Martin puts it, “they unexpectedly offer freshness and richness that were once thought to be mutually exclusive.”
The Côtes des Bar and Chablis have a lot in common. They’re both satellite appellations of their respective areas (Champagne and Burgundy), and both produce wines of a slightly different style than their parent region. Chablis is a steelier, stonier, less-oaked version of Burgundy; the Côtes des Bar is a more Pinot Noir-focused Champagne, from more clay-rich soils. And though historically both have suffered a bit from their location off center stage, these days they’re both enjoying a moment in the spotlight.
Last week’s visit to Sebastien Giroux in Pouilly-Fuissé was a masterclass in deliberate, exquisite winemaking. Gone are the days of Pouilly-Fuissé meaning a glass of buttered popcorn and cream – Giroux’s wines are barely-oaked, sleek, chiseled, and pulsating with energy. They’re easily the most exciting new white Burgundies in our portfolio.
On Tuesday we spent the day tasting in the Côte de Nuits, sampling wines from Nuits, Vosne, Chambolle, Morey-St-Denis, Gevrey, and more. We’re no terroir skeptics, but it was a stark reminder of the unmistakable power of terroir. Across various producers and vintages, the appellation and villages shone through as clear as day.
We first visited the Domaine Dupré-Goujon last spring, and were delighted to return this past Thursday. Winemakers Guillaume Goujon and Sebastien Dupré are redefining what’s possible from the Beaujolais. Their vines, located in the Côte de Brouilly, share the earth with an impressive array of herbs, flowers, grasses, and wildlife – all in the name of fostering biodiversity and soil health.
Friday we spent the morning tasting in the Maconnais. This sub-region at Burgundy’s southern end is impossibly picturesque – quaint stone farmhouses and Charolais cattle dot a rolling countryside that lazily switches between lush green pastures and fields of vines. The wines coming from this region have never been better, and we’re thrilled to have […]
Yesterday we spent the morning with Jean-Pierre Cartier, visiting his vines in the steep hills above Gigondas. After climbing the (at times terrifyingly) steep slope up out of town, we visited the parcels from which Cartier crafts his most impressive wine: the Cuvée Florence. It was a reminder of just how physical the work of […]
We arrived yesterday in the Southern Rhône, where it’s beautiful — dry, mid-60s and sunny with that clear provencal blue sky. As usual, we began our tastings with Christophe Mestre, whose domaine is in the heart of the town of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Mestre and his wife are from old Châteauneuf du Pape families, and their vines are in plots scattered across the town’s remarkably diverse terroir – galets roulés, sand, and clay-limestone.
On Wednesday we spent the day tasting in along the sleep slopes of the Northern Rhône Valley. Beginning in Crozes-Hermitage in the south, we crossed the river to Cornas, and then worked our way up through Saint-Joseph and Condrieu before arriving in the northernmost appellation, Côte Rôtie.
Winemaker Frederic Michot is as brisk and energetic as his wines: pure Sauvignon blanc, no oak, clean and crisp. Michot’s side of the river may be less famous than his neighbor Sancerre, but he isn’t willing to concede it any advantage. His wines are exceptional Sauvignon blancs, full of precision, focus, clean dry fruit, and beautiful tension.
France’s Jura region sits only 50 miles east of Burgundy, but in winemaking terms it’s a world away. The Jura is best known for its light reds and idiosyncratic whites, many of which are purposefully oxidized before bottling. We find these unusual white wines delicious, but admit they’re not to everyone’s taste.
Chenin blanc has an enormous range of expression. It can be anywhere from bone dry to very sweet depending on vintage, terroir, and winemaker. Vouvray is the original source for Chenin Blanc, but the surrounding towns in the central Loire Valley produce excellent examples as well.