If we were to pick one thing we look for above all else when evaluating a wine, it would be balance. No matter the grape or region, style or price, a wine with all its elements in at the correct levels succeeds. Achieving balance between ripeness and freshness has become harder in recent hot, dry […]
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“Round and Elegant”: New Grüner Veltliner on Another Level
The Salomon-Undhof estate dates to 1792, and is currently on its 7th and 8th generation winemakers, father and son Bert and Bert Salomon. Their terraced vines overlooking the Danube have long been an excellent source, with the country’s foremost wine guide calling them a “figurehead of Austrian wine history.”
An Old Favorite $22 Gulpable Sangiovese Returns
Back in 2018, winemaker Pierro Lanza of the Fattoria Poggerino said goodbye to his “Labirinto” cuvée. The young vines used for this cuvée had finally grown up, gone to college, and moved out of the house. (More accurately they became old enough for inclusion in his base Chianti Classico cuvée.) We were sad to see Labirinto disappear, but happy to…
Crackling, Vibrant, Springtime Loire Cabernet Franc. $22
Some wine writers will tell you that we’re living in the golden age of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. Twenty years ago winemakers would struggle to ripen their grapes, and as anyone who’s had one will agree, underripe Cabernet Franc is a particular sort of unappealing. Twenty years from now, if warmer summers and earlier harvests continue, the wines may become…
Remarkable 12-Year-Old Vintage Grower Champagne under $100
Over the weekend we celebrated Oysterfest at our warehouse in Newton. It was a smashing success: our diligent visitors put away over 600 oysters in just four hours, not to mention polishing off a few cases of Champagne, Chablis, Muscadet, Sancerre and more.
Delicious $32 Left-Bank Bordeaux for Grilling Season
There’s something irresistible about the combination of well-browned, juicy steak and a glass of red wine. For subtler meats like duck or tenderloin, we love Burgundy; for lamb or anything spicy, send us Côte Rôtie. But for something hearty – a ribeye perhaps – our pick is usually Bordeaux.
Pure, Refreshing, Delicious 2020 Red Burgundy from Pommard
We spent a lovely morning tasting with Sofie Bohrmann last month in Meursault. She’s warm and welcoming, quick with a smile, and very friendly – by the end of the tasting she was talking us into staying for a beer (she is Belgian, after all). Her wines also happen to be outstanding. Together with her […]
Crisp, Refreshing, Delicious New Rosé. $22
We’d bet that many readers have garages bigger than the Domaine Malmont’s winemaking space. We work with some small-production winemakers, but even by our standards Malmont’s winery is tiny. The space attached to winemaker Nicolas Haeni’s house in Séguret looks more like a large tool shed than a winemaking operation.
Bold, Muscular, Delicious 2019 Red Burgundy
New winemakers in Burgundy are hard to come by. It’s a tiny region, and between small harvests, ever increasing demand, and well-established importers, it can seem there’s nothing new to discover. Which makes us even gladder of our most recent Burgundian find: the Domaine Boursot in Chambolle-Musigny. Neal Martin of Vinous writes of a “foundation […]
Lightweight, Delicious, Bone-Dry Muscadet. $22
With baseball here, the thermometer pushing 70, and the Marathon around the corner, it’s finally starting to feel like spring here in Boston. (This is New England, of course, and even typing those words probably risks an April snow storm.) But we’ve turned over the season in our minds and cellars, and eventually Mother Nature will catch up.
“Vibrant” 2020 Red Burgundy from Michel Gros. $35
Burgundian harvest dates in August were unthinkable only decades ago, but they’re quickly becoming common. In many locations, early harvests make it far more difficult to produce balanced wines; but in parts of Burgundy, at least, there are silver linings.
Classy, Smooth 2020 White Burgundy from St-Aubin
St-Aubin may not be the secret source for white Burgundy it once was, but it’s not because of the quality. Soaring prices for Burgundy from its famous neighboring towns of Puligny, Chassagne, and Meursault mean that the spillover demand has nudged prices for St-Aubin well. But the quality has more than kept pace, and despite the demise of its anonymity,…
“Delicious, Plump and Juicy:” Serious, Delicious Springtime Red Burgundy
The 2019 vintage is a terrific red Burgundy vintage, producing wines with extraordinary balance between ripe fruit, acidity, and tannin. As Neal Martin puts it, “they unexpectedly offer freshness and richness that were once thought to be mutually exclusive.”
Small-Batch, Delicious, Everyday Grower Champagne. $49
The Côtes des Bar and Chablis have a lot in common. They’re both satellite appellations of their respective areas (Champagne and Burgundy), and both produce wines of a slightly different style than their parent region. Chablis is a steelier, stonier, less-oaked version of Burgundy; the Côtes des Bar is a more Pinot Noir-focused Champagne, from more clay-rich soils. And though…
“Pure and Charming:” Chiseled, Delicious $35 White Burgundy
Last week’s visit to Sebastien Giroux in Pouilly-Fuissé was a masterclass in deliberate, exquisite winemaking. Gone are the days of Pouilly-Fuissé meaning a glass of buttered popcorn and cream – Giroux’s wines are barely-oaked, sleek, chiseled, and pulsating with energy. They’re easily the most exciting new white Burgundies in our portfolio.