Climate change is hard to ignore when you’re a farmer. Warmer summers and earlier harvests have provided Burgundian growers with new challenges, as balance and freshness have become trickier to achieve. But in some corners of Burgundy, the warmer weather has been welcome.
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Brilliant, Tension-Filled Dry Riesling under $20
Ask a group of sommeliers to name their favorite wine region and most will say Burgundy. But ask them for just one favorite grape varietal, and it’s likely Riesling. Aside from its excellent food friendliness, Riesling communicates terroir with as much honesty and precision as any other grape.
“Vibrant,” Old-Vine 2018 Premier Cru Chablis
Romain Collet took over his family’s fines in 2008, and has since made great strides. Having introduced organic farming, natural yeasts, and a lighter hand in the cellar, the Domaine Collet has regained its once loft status among sources for high-end Chablis.
[Advance Order] Outstanding New 2018 Chianti Classico, $250/case
French wines have long been the focus of the Ansonia portfolio. Of the 45 winemakers we work with, about half are from Burgundy, and all but a few are French. Our longtime exception to this rule is the Fattoria Poggerino.
Electric New Dry Riesling from Mosel Valley
Riesling still has an image problem. Among sommeliers and wine professionals, the grape is lauded for its value, its ability to communicate terroir, and its ability to age. But many wine drinkers still associate it with a sweet, insipid style of wine with little balance and no complexity.
Nectar of the Northern Rhône: Stunning New 95-pt Condrieu
French winemakers have spent centuries perfecting the ideal marriages of grape and land. Each region has its own match: Pinot Noir in Burgundy, Sauvignon blanc in Sancerre, Merlot in Bordeaux, Grenache in the Rhône, etc.
“Perfectly Balanced” & “Mouthwatering”: Delicious 2018 White Burgundy
Burgundies are not getting any cheaper. With limited supply and ever-increasing demand, good values are harder and harder to find. But one Burgundian town that continues to deliver far more than people expect is St-Aubin. And we’re not the only ones to notice. Rajat Parr writes writes that St-Aubin “produces some of the best-value Chardonnays […]
“Beguiling” New 2018 Cornas: Syrah at its Most Intense
Cornas is a tiny appellation. It covers 145 hectares (compared with Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s 3,000+), and is home to fewer than 50 vignerons. The name comes from the Celtic word for “burnt earth,” and it’s an appropriate moniker: Cornas is pure Syrah like the rest of the Northern Rhône, but the feel is of something sunnier from further South.
[ADVANCE ORDER] Bold, Vibrant New 2018 Michel Gros Bourgogne. $25
Our final Futures issue of the year comes out next week. It includes some of our most popular winemakers -- Goubert, Boyer-Martenot, Desvignes, Bardoux and more -- but one favorite in particular: the Domaine Michel Gros. His entire lineup of 2018s will be available next Sunday, but today we’re focusing on one wine that is always in short supply.
“Highly Seductive” 2015 Red Burgundy, a Clos de Tart Neighbor
The Clos de Tart is one of Burgundy’s iconic vineyards properties. The vineyard has had only four owners since the 12th century, and, unusually for Burgundy, has never been subdivided. Today the wines from this 7.5 hectare monopole start around $500 per bottle.
[Advance Order] Extraordinary New Meursault-Like Bourgogne Blanc under $30
In a Beaune restaurant last spring we stumbled upon that most elusive of wine merchant targets: an unknown Burgundy domaine. Formed in 2002 with just 1.5 hectares of vines, the Domaine Bohrmann has no other importers, zero critical reviews, and a (very) hard-to-reach winemaker.
Smooth, Intense Northern Rhône Red: “the Best in 55 Years.” $25
Much has been written about the 2015 vintage in Burgundy, one of the best in at least a generation. But the vintage also blessed other regions in France, in particular, the syrah-based wines of the Northern Rhône. Master Jancis Robinson speculated the 2015 Northern Rhones might be “the best in 55 years.”
[ADVANCE ORDER] Bursting, Juicy, Gulpable 2018 Red Burgundy
Maranges is the Côte d’Or’s forgotten appellation. In the past it was known for its unrefined, tannic wines -- Burgundians used to call it “le medecin” (the doctor) because some secretly blended it into thinner Côte d’Or reds to bulk up weak vintages.
Rosé Arrives, at Last
We’re calling it — it’s now rosé season. Sure it might be 50 degrees and rainy next week, but throw on a pair of sunglasses and a short sleeve shirt and just pretend. Summer has to get here some day. This year we’ve got three exciting exciting rosés — all 2019s and just arrived. (And […]
Extraordinary 2018 Premier Cru Old-Vine White Burgundy: 94 points, $39
Cyril Gautheron makes Chablis in its most stripped down form. His pure Chardonnay cuvées are intense and full, but draw their substance from their fruit instead of oak. They show minerality, depth, ripeness, and gorgeous texture.