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A humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless…
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A humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless attention to detail, Gautier landed at his family’s domaine a decade ago, and has since transformed it into one of the region’s superstars. We find ourselves saying this almost every year, but his 2023s are the best he’s made – ripe and sleek with perfect extraction and maturity, vibrant textures, and elegant, lifting finishes. Gautier called them “digeste” (roughly, “digestible”), which is an excellent characterization.At the northern end of town lies the Givry 1er cru “Clos Charlé,” a Givry of a different character. This is finer and more chiseled, with beautiful detail and loads of dark fresh fruit. The tannins are fine grained and seamless, with pretty notes of rose petals and cool berries. It has the weight of a Beaune 1er cru, with a stony freshness amid the perfectly detailed fruit.
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A humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless…
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A humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless attention to detail, Gautier landed at his family’s domaine a decade ago, and has since transformed it into one of the region’s superstars. We find ourselves saying this almost every year, but his 2023s are the best he’s made – ripe and sleek with perfect extraction and maturity, vibrant textures, and elegant, lifting finishes. Gautier called them “digeste” (roughly, “digestible”), which is an excellent characterization.The Givry 1er cru “Clos du Vernoy” is the domaine’s monopole, and it’s beautiful this year. Located just behind the domaine, this is the most serious of Gautier’s cuvées – the most ambitious and probably the most impressive, given time. It is tightly wound with notes of plum, cassis and cool earth: compact and well built, with inky tannins to match the gorgeous fruit. Try this in six months and you’ll be really impressed; try it in 18 months and you might trade in your stock of Gevrey-Chambertin for more of it.
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Gautier Desvignes's Givry 1er cru “Grand Vignes” is…
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Gautier Desvignes's Givry 1er cru “Grand Vignes” is more serious than the village-level Givry blanc – it’s hands down the best vintage of this wine we’ve tried. Gautier raises this entirely in oak, with ⅕ new barrels. The nose is exquisite and detailed, with golden apple fruit and delicate stones. The mouth is floral and long with wonderful length across a bursting and juicy palate that finishes clean and delightful. We’d put this in the same category as a St-Aubin from Thomas Morey or Sophie Bohrmann, and it comes at a serious discount.
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Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de…
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Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de la Garenne, owned by members of a leading wine-producing family in the town. The Godon-Reverdys produce superb Sancerre at a variety of price points, and their wines are among the most popular in our portfolio.This cuvée used to be called "Infidele," but is now “Silex” -- it comes from a small parcel laden with flint, whose characteristic aromas include a touch of gunflint smokiness. This wine has always offered extraordinary density and a sumptuous mouthfeel, and that is a feature of the 2023 vintage as well.
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Romain Collet is one of the most exciting…
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Romain Collet is one of the most exciting talents in our portfolio. He’s the energetic and innovative grandson of Jean Collet, the domaine’s founder. He experiments with all of today’s means of elevage, so a visitor to the cellars now walks past not only stainless steel tanks and large oak foudres, but also cement eggs, clay amphoras, and barrels of all sizes, from traditional Burgundian to demi-muids holding 400 or 500 liters. Among our favorites is Romain's Chablis 1er cru cuvée from “Forêts,” a terroir made famous by Dauvissat’s iconic cuvée. Romain uses large concrete eggs for his Forêts cuvée, and the wine has a smoothed layer of fruit over the piercing Chablis acidity. The resulting wine is dry, dynamic and delicious, at once mouthfilling and bursting with saline and zip.
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The Domaine is run these days by Romain…
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The Domaine is run these days by Romain Collet, the energetic and talented grandson of Jean Collet, the founder. Romain skillfully matches the new and old techniques with the various terroirs, crafting delicious and varied wines with much character. The result is a wide selection, in which something can be found to please every palate.In Butteaux the ground is just a bit cooler, contributing more briskness and just enough fat. Butteaux 2023 began its elevage in tank and finished in older Burgundian barrels. As between these two Montmains siblings, Forêts offers a bit more richness, Butteaux a bit more steely energy and salinity.  The mouth is very dry and tense, with less fruit than Forêts. In some years this approaches a Côte d’Or white; this year Collet has dialed the oak way down, and it’s almost imperceptible.
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Jasper Morris MW : “deliciously floral…amazing how such…
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Jasper Morris MW : “deliciously floral…amazing how such a luxurious style of chardonnay can retain elegance." Neal Martin (Vinous): "These wines are well worth seeking out."  William Kelley (Wine Advocate): “These are honeyed, concentrated wines that are imbued with remarkable concentration and energy, and they develop beautifully in the cellar….One of the best producers in the Maconnais.”As Gautier Roussille put it,  2023 was the rare vintage that delivers both quantity and quality.  Despite a stormy summer, the grapes reached optimal maturity while maintaining an excellent level of acidity — a perfect equilibrium that makes for a wine with ripe fruit, minerals and structure at the same time. When we tasted it in March, it was already beautiful, with richness, length, and complexity.
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The Domaine Michel Gros offers a one-stop opportunity…
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The Domaine Michel Gros offers a one-stop opportunity to appreciate the remarkable complexity and nuance to be found in the red wine from Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. For more than 150 years, the family has owned vineyards across the Côte de Nuits, and over a 45 year career Michel Gros enhanced a wonderful collection of parcels that today serve as a benchmark for understanding terroir and vintage.Au Vallon is a parcel that faces full south, and the sunny orientation always brings a bit more ripeness and roundness to the wine. Burghound marked it particularly outstanding in its appellation. We find that it becomes accessible sooner than the regular cuvée, with both good volume and vibrancy to the delicious middle-weight flavors and a pleasant freshness that will begin drinking well before long.
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The Domaine Michel Gros offers a one-stop opportunity…
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The Domaine Michel Gros offers a one-stop opportunity to appreciate the remarkable complexity and nuance to be found in the red wine from Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. For more than 150 years, the family has owned vineyards across the Côte de Nuits, and over a 45 year career Michel Gros enhanced a wonderful collection of parcels that today serve as a benchmark for understanding terroir and vintage.The Chardonnay from vines in the Fontaine St. Martin monopole is very nice in 2023, with just enough freshness and very good length. The ripe fruit blends well with the oak and a pleasant lemon peel note adds interest. This is a vintage to drink young, and holds its own against its better known neighbors from the Côte de Beaune.
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in…
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in the challenging 2024 vintage. We've long been fans of his wines, and it was gratifying to see Vinous's Neal Martin heap praise on Gautier's thoughtful winemaking, citing their commendable purity and fine tannins. These were among the most successful red Burgundies we tasted from the vintage, and we think they are wines any red Burgundy collector would be proud to serve at the table.Grand Berge, at the southern end of Givry, often produces an accessible, young-drinking wine, and the 2024 is a real success. The nose is pretty and dark with notes of plum and smoke, while fine tannins and delicate red fruits mingle with earthy stones on the palate. Stylish, silky, and already approachable, this should be delicious from the start.
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in…
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in the challenging 2024 vintage. We've long been fans of his wines, and it was gratifying to see Vinous's Neal Martin heap praise on Gautier's thoughtful winemaking, citing their commendable purity and fine tannins. These were among the most successful red Burgundies we tasted from the vintage, and we think they are wines any red Burgundy collector would be proud to serve at the table.The Desvignes monopole, with vines dating back to 1960, Clos du Vernoy produces deep, woodsy wines that reward patience. The 2024 shows sweet strawberry and cherry fruit over a beautiful stony core, with an extremely fine texture and mouthwatering freshness that carries across the rich fruit. This is Gautier's most ambitious, long-lived cuvée.
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in…
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in the challenging 2024 vintage. We've long been fans of his wines, and it was gratifying to see Vinous's Neal Martin heap praise on Gautier's thoughtful winemaking, citing their commendable purity and fine tannins. These were among the most successful red Burgundies we tasted from the vintage, and we think they are wines any red Burgundy collector would be proud to serve at the table.Clos Charlé is Gautier's most refined cuvée, and the 2024 offers tremendous detail and balance. The nose is dark and gorgeous with notes of cassis and raspberry, while the palate is finely chiseled with perfectly judged fruit spread over a delicate tannic core. Elegant and beautifully balanced, this is a delightful expression of premier cru Givry.
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in…
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in the challenging 2024 vintage. We've long been fans of his wines, and it was gratifying to see Vinous's Neal Martin heap praise on Gautier's thoughtful winemaking, citing their commendable purity and fine tannins. These were among the most successful red Burgundies we tasted from the vintage, and we think they are wines any red Burgundy collector would be proud to serve at the table.Les Grandes Vignes was Neal Martin's highest-scoring wine from his inaugural visit to the domaine, and we agree that the 2024 is superb. The nose shows lemon curd and brioche with subtle stoniness behind, while the palate is long, tense, and beautifully concentrated. Easily matching the depth of a fine St-Aubin or village Chassagne, this is an outstanding white Burgundy.
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Chateau Larrieu-Terrefort's 2019 Margaux is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon…
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Chateau Larrieu-Terrefort's 2019 Margaux is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, and offers a particularly refined take on the terroir. The class of the vintage is apparent, and the 2019’s elegant, perfectly structured tannins are exquisite in this wine. The nose is sophisticated and pretty with notes of sweet spice and oak; the mouth is fine and long with a delicate balance and very long finish. This will benefit from some time in the bottle, but we expect it to be exceptional in a few years.
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One particular success in 2022 are the reds…
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One particular success in 2022 are the reds of Roger Belland, whose cuvées are universally delicious, and always well priced. His Santenay 1er cru “Gravières” 2022 is a triumph – loads of dark cassis and violet fruit packed into a solid and inky core of fruit and minerals. And all wrapped up in a neat, classy, 13% alc. package.Burghound loved this wine, awarding it both “Outstanding” and “Top Value” designations. He found “fine volume and richness,” with “an opulent mid-palate mouthfeel,” calling the finish “firm and serious.” It’s juicy modern red Burgundy, but with perfect ripeness and an old-school texture.
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We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for…
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We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we see the same knack for making the most of the clay-limestone terroir that underlies Pouilly-Fuissé’s possibilities. Vessigaud is Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level), and the results in the glass are obvious: vibrant wines full of tension and bursting with life. We are not alone in our views — as William Kelley writes: “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”“Pierres à Canards,” is a small plot of 70 year-old vines in a higher section, and in 2023 the wine was impressively generous in the nose and round in the mouth. It was vinified and raised in barrels for 12 months, followed by 6 months en cuve. There’s a lot going on in this glass: great purity of fruit mingled with a mineral line, and much length on the palate. It’s a bit drier than the Vieilles Vignes – more savory, more saline, more serious – but no less tasty. Like the Vieilles Vignes, it should have a long life and prove a versatile wine to pair with a wide range of dishes.
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As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently:…
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As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.Raised entirely in stainless steel, the Vaucoupin is particularly nice in 2023, offering a fine and delicate mouthfeel. The balance is particularly good, with freshness tied into a palate that nonetheless feels round and supple. In the nose, floral notes of acacia join the clean lemon fruit. Jasper Morris found “plenty of tension on the palate, discreet in the middle, a little richer at the finish. . . . Classy yet of medium body.” This is prototypical Chablis, and it wants for nothing.
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As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently:…
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As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.The Chablis premier cru “Fourneaux” 2023 is from a right-bank vineyard with more clay in the soils. It is also raised entirely in stainless steel, but the additional clay makes the wine more easily accessible, with a palate of rounder mouthfeel before a mineral finish with refreshing salinity. Jasper Morris awarded four stars, calling it “understated yet fine.”
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Morey’s white Burgundies are quietly extraordinary. They’re concentrated…
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Morey’s white Burgundies are quietly extraordinary. They’re concentrated but perfectly channeled, long but refined – immaculate fruit and stones join the merest whisper of oak. Morey makes terrific wine at every level, but today we’re focused on his simplest: Bourgogne blanc.This cuvée shows all of the meticulous concentration of all of Morey’s wines, but without the site-specific terroir shining through. It’s not about the chiseled stoniness of Puligny, or the shimmering golden energy of Chassagne; this is about winemaker style. And boy, what a style it is.Morey’s Bourgogne blanc usually evaporates in Futures, but this year we’ve got a bit extra. Open last night alongside a roast chicken and fall weather, this was simply delicious. The nose shows lime zest and white flowers, the mouth shows yellow plum and earth. Burghound called this “lovely,” and we think you will too.
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The Domaine Guillemot-Michel from the hamlet of Quintaine…
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The Domaine Guillemot-Michel from the hamlet of Quintaine in the Viré-Clessé appellation has been the project of Pierette and Marc Guillemot-Michel since the 1980’s, now joined by their daughter Sophie and their son-in-law Gautier Roussille. These are honeyed, concentrated wines imbued with remarkable concentration and energy, and they develop beautifully in the cellar.Une Bulle 2022 was first created to celebrate the marriage of Sophie and Gautier, and is made by the Methode Ancestrale. Ripe grapes are harvested and fermentation is begun in vats, then before all the sugar is consumed the wines are bottled and fermentation continues there, producing the gas that provides the mousse. After 15-24 months on the lees, the wine is disgorged and corked, with no addition of exogenous sugar. The result is a delicious sparkling wine with plenty of complexity, tiny bubbles and a delightful mouthfeel, with freshness and tension that matches well with food.
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Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine…
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Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to beginner’s luck. His father Michel is never far away with ready counsel and advice, but this is Pierre’s ship now, and he’s steering it beautifully. Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and his wines are clean and pure – they sport the same polish as his fathers’ with perhaps a bit more concentration of fruit and slightly longer finishes.Fontaine-St-Martin is the domaine’s monopole in the Hautes-Côtes. Together with the Au Vallon parcel and the broader Hautes-Côtes blend, it represents the higher elevation vineyards above the famous slope of the Côte d’Or.
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Poggerino, in Radda in Chianti, is one of…
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Poggerino, in Radda in Chianti, is one of the reference-point estates for pure, terroir-driven Sangiovese. Under Piero Lanza, the domaine has built a decades-long reputation for meticulous vineyard work and restrained, traditional winemaking, producing wines that emphasize clarity, balance, and site expression. Antonio Galloni has called them “some of the purest expressions of the Sangiovese grape in Italy.”Finally, the 2022 Chianti Classico Riserva “Bugialla” is another resounding success, which Galloni called “gorgeous” and “superb.” He found that “black cherry, new leather, spice, menthol and licorice fill out the layers effortlessly.” While it is a powerful wine with the structure to stand up to the robust flavors of game or lamb, it also shows plenty of finesse.
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The soils of this region are the same…
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The soils of this region are the same Kimmeridgian mixture as nearby Chablis — a blend of chalk, limestone, and clay, rather than the chalk-limestone of the rest of Champagne. The addition of clay gives the wines a broader mouthfeel than those from northern Champagne, and we found all four Robin wines delightfully rich on the palate.Cuvée Topaze is blanc de blancs (100% chardonnay): refined, elegant, and subtle; the nose is fresh and clean with notes of lemon, chalk, and green apple. The mouth beautifully blends citrus and earth — it calls to mind a white Burgundy with bubbles.
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The 2019 vintage produced wines that were almost…
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The 2019 vintage produced wines that were almost universally successful. The tannins are compact and delicious, with an unusual succulence that makes them delightful even young. The fruits are both perfectly ripe and beautifully balanced, indicating a long life ahead.Ravaut’s 2019 Côte de Nuits-Villages is among our most popular everyday red Burgundies. Today we’re suggesting its more sophisticated and classier cousin: the Ladoix 1er cru “Bois Roussot.” It’s bursting with strawberries and briary, woodsy berries in the nose; the mouth is smooth and fine-grained, with excellent density and a clean, modern finish.
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The Chastan family has been making wine in…
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The Chastan family has been making wine in the same style for two generations. They were among the earliest in the region to farm organically (they were certified in 1980!), and their winemaking is simple and straightforward.  Vinification for all the wines is cement vats, followed by an elevage in either vats or neutral oak foudres.  The wines are neither fined nor filtered.The Clos du Joncuas Gigondas 2020 is an easy, early-drinking vintage. It is silky smooth and rich, with dense, sweet fruit and notes of allspice. Though velvety, there is good underlying structure and a bit of earthiness in the finish. A dose of salinity balances the lush fruit, making this a delightful young wine we think will drink well for several years.
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Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th…
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Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual.Belland’s Santenay 1er cru “Gravières” 2020 highlights the virtue of the best 2020s: though the vintage is a very ripe one, the dryness left enough acidity in the grapes to keep the wines fresh and vibrant. Thus the wines are well balanced and should age beautifully. Allen Meadows (“Burghound”) praised the Gravières 2020 for its “intense and elegant floral-suffused nose,” finding “black cherry liqueur, soft spice, and earth.” It’s 40% whole cluster fermentation this year, giving excellent definition to the lush fruit.
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This wine transcends the genre in a way…
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This wine transcends the genre in a way few other bottles do – if you told us it was a village Gevrey we’d believe you – humble in appellation, but striking in taste. Cheron used 100% whole clusters, adding definition to the dark fruit.This is the most complex and elegant red Bourgogne in our portfolio. The nose is deep and beautiful with intense dark fruit but excellent lift – there’s a stony earthiness behind the plums that’s balanced and enticing. The mouth is clear, long, and nimble, bouncing from wild cherries to anise to black pepper and back to cassis. Burghound praised its “racy, delicious, well detailed flavors.” It offers immediate enjoyment, but should cellar a year or two with ease.
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Ragot’s 2023 Clos Jus is terrific. It’s 85%…
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Ragot’s 2023 Clos Jus is terrific. It’s 85% raised in barrel (40% new) and the rest in amphora, with 25% whole cluster. This recipe makes for a serious red Burgundy, and the wine has the presence and texture of a village-level Gevrey-Chambertin. The nose is dark and sappy with impressively complex layers of spice, blackberry, cherry and stones. The mouth is rich and dense but with exceptional tension and freshness – it’s a dynamic wine in a way that much sub-$50 red Burgundy is not.Neal Martin of Vinous gave it 91 points, finding a “bouquet of crushed strawberry, cranberry and lightly pressed flower.” In the mouth he noted “fine tannins, well balanced and refined,” concluding “this is another delicious Givry from Nicolas Ragot.”
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Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from…
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Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for success in the insular world of Burgundian vignerons where most inherit vines, and people even from the Maconnais (an hour south) are considered out of towners. And yet she’s cracked into the elite world of Côte d’Or winemaking. She’s a real winemaking talent, of course, but we’re betting her charming smile and disarmingly friendly demeanor go a long way. Her style is clear and juicy – the wines are packed with flavor, limited oak, and flat-out delicious textures.Not long ago Sofie purchased the Clos Sous le Chateau, a small monopole in St. Romain, which is perched at the very top of the valley that runs west from Meursault. The 2023 vintage of this wine is excellent, with its elevation providing fine definition and energy.  The nose has the precision of a Puligny, and in the mouth there is good concentration. Its persistence on the palate signals a wine that will mature gracefully.
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Romain Collet’s 2023 Chablis 1er “Montée de Tonnerre”…
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Romain Collet’s 2023 Chablis 1er “Montée de Tonnerre” provides terrific value. It’s one of his most impressive cuvées – regal, refined, complex and vibrant. He’s got exceptional terroir, and he knows how to use it. There’s everything at once – richness, depth, stoniness, length, and polish.Jasper Morris found that “white clay with plenty of stones lend it some Left Bank minerality, but the superb exposure of the hillside allows the Right Bank richness of fruit to dominate.” We think Collet’s 2023 Montée de Tonnerre shows the completeness for which the vineyard is famous. Serve this with a fine dish from the sea – lobster, scallops, branzino, dover sole, swordfish, etc.
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Gérard Thomas’s white Burgundies are always the first…
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Gérard Thomas’s white Burgundies are always the first we offer of the vintage, and as usual it’s an excellent place to start. They’re decidedly old-school in texture, ranging from 11.5% to 12% in alcohol, and sporting a refined daintiness that’s impossible to resist. These wines will arrive as winter turns to spring, and we expect them to suit the warmer weather season perfectly.Thomas’s St-Aubin is a blend of several village level plots, a noticeable step up in complexity. The nose shows gardenia, hints of oak, and white pepper. The mouth is lovely, with a deep savory palate of grapeskin and lemon zest. At 12% alcohol it’s light on its feet, but with gorgeous fruit and a lovely vibrant texture.
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Château Larrieu-Terrefort is sourced through the classic Bordeaux…
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Château Larrieu-Terrefort is sourced through the classic Bordeaux négociant model, representing a traditional expression of Margaux from the Left Bank.This 2020 Margaux is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, offering a classic Left-Bank profile. The excellent vintage brings signature elegance and precision along with terrific density and a velvety smooth mouthfeel. The nose shows sweet spice and oak, while the mouth is fine and long with a delicate balance and very long finish. This will benefit from a few hours in a carafe or a year or two in bottle, but should be terrific either way.
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Yann Chave’s domaine began in 1970, when his…
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Yann Chave’s domaine began in 1970, when his parents made their first purchase of vines and fruit trees in Crozes-Hermitage. After years in Paris, Yann returned home in the 1990s to focus the estate on fine wine, building an impressive reputation in the process. Jancis Robinson writes of his “really artisanal wine with masses of integrity and bags of personality,” while the Wine Advocate calls it “one of the most exciting estates in Crozes-Hermitage.”A few years after his return home, Yann identified an old vine parcel in Crozes-Hermitage as worthy of its own cuvée and began producing “Le Rouvre.” The 2023 shows the extra intensity and length that comes from very old vines. Vinous awarded it 91 points, finding “black pepper and graphite accents, meticulously accompanied by finely tuned blackberry and dried violets.” It merits the higher price it carries and should continue to please for many years.
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Join us on Thursday nights for the return…
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Join us on Thursday nights for the return of in-person tastings at the Depot this fall!Thursday, September 14, 6:30pm: Chablis & the MaconnaisExplore white Burgundies from outside the Côte d'Or.Gautheron Chablis 1er Montmains 2021Collet Chablis 1er Vaillons 2021Collet Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2021Giroux Pouilly-Fuissé VV 2020Maillet Pouilly-Fuissé 2020Forces-Telluriques Viré-Clessé 2020Any purchases of 3+ bottles will be credited back the $50 tasting fee.
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One of our favorites recent second wine discoveries…
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One of our favorites recent second wine discoveries is the Murmure du Larcis Ducasse, a St-Emilion Grand Cru. Chateau Larcis Ducasse is a well known estate whose flagship label “flirts with perfection” in good vintages (Jeb Dunnuck). If you’re in need of a serious, mature, sub-$60 Bordeaux, look no further. James Suckling gave the 2018 Murmure a 95, just two points behind the flagship label that year, finding it “elegant…juicy, and fleshy texture…savory…such balance.” This wine stole the show at our tasting in January, and we’re delighted it’s finally arrived. Among a crowded field of other St-Emilions, this showed a beautiful floral nose with violets and plum, and lush, very fresh fruit. The mouth is sturdy and rich, and every tannin is coated in gorgeous ripe fruit. Drink with steak.
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Chateau Cantemerle is an extremely old property (dating…
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Chateau Cantemerle is an extremely old property (dating back to the 12th century), recognized as a “fifth growth” in the 1855 classification. This is the most serious of the three, with a gorgeous, deep, outstanding nose showing wild cherries, tobacco, and just a hint of spice. The mouth is sturdy and extremely well built, with tremendous concentration and a long impeccably balanced finish. There’s dark, rich fruit, solid structure, and impressive freshness.
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The Bonnefonds produce exceptional red wines, with notes…
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The Bonnefonds produce exceptional red wines, with notes of dark fruits and spice. They are rich without being heavy – only 13% alcohol – and there’s an attractive liveliness often lacking in Syrah from the Southern Hemisphere. Bonnefond wines will age with no trouble for ten or more years.Their  Côte Rôtie shows plum, roasted meats and black pepper; the mouth is spiced and dense, showing olives and dark chocolate, and a hint of smoke. The inky tannins here are firm but not harsh, and with a few hours in a carafe this is a lovely glass of wine. We wouldn’t be the first to volunteer to work the vertigo-inducing “fields” of Bonnefond’s vineyards, but we’re certainly glad someone does.
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The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge…
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The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge for nine generations. Today they raise their fruits organically and biodynamically, and their crèmes are the cleanest, purest, most intense extraction of fruit we’ve ever seen. We’ll admit some skepticism as they explained that they play baroque music in their cave so the auditory vibrations can help the extraction — but one taste of these cremes and you won’t care what they do to make it. 
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Most Champagne, including our primary source Pascal Bardoux…
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Most Champagne, including our primary source Pascal Bardoux, comes from the area surrounding Reims. But Robin is in the increasingly popular Côte des Bar, a southern satellite subregion of Champagne about half way between Reims and Dijon.The Secret de Sorbée is fermented partially in barrel and left on the lees for over two years. The resulting wine is toasty and fresh with lovely apple fruit and floral notes. The Guide Hachette awarded a star, and called it “at once round and tart,” with a “pleasant, intense fruit expression.”
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“Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris of the…
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“Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris of the 2022 red Burgundies; “very good wines and plenty of them.”  William Kelley calls them “succulent, suave and charming”, “offering excellence in both colors and in a wide variety of styles.”  Roger Belland's reds are entirely classic, with ripe modern fruit but traditional, low-alcohol textures.Belland’s Santenay 1er cru “Beauregard” is delicious in this vintage. After a few minutes in the glass, its sunny ripe fruit begins to emerge. In the mouth it is particularly pleasant, fresh enough but not brisk, and round but not too mouth filling. The combination gives it an elegant feel, with ripe tannins providing support at the back end.
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Vessigaud is a committed biodynamic vigneron whose wines…
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Vessigaud is a committed biodynamic vigneron whose wines are Demeter certified, the highest organic classification. In the bottle this translates to superb purity and clarity, with careful elevage and excellent balance. As William Kelley puts it, “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”Pouilly-Fuissé 1er cru “Vignes Blanche” is rich, smooth, and vibrant, with unusual power and depth. Even here Vessigaud eschews new oak, opting for 5-year-old demi-muids (large 600L barrels) for a year. He’s right, of course – the wine wants for nothing, showing notes of brioche, pear, and chalk with a long, sleek, shimmering finish. “This is achingly good – simply excellent wine,” writes critic Bill Nanson.
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Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls the Coutier wines…
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Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls the Coutier wines “gorgeous…all showing the natural richness of Ambonnay,” and writing they “have been favorites of mine for years, because of their quality, personality, and exceedingly fair prices.” Ambonnay is known as Pinot Noir country, where extra clay and warm southern exposure lend themselves well to the red grape.Courtier’s base “Cuvée Tradition” is simply exquisite grower Champagne at a remarkable price. It’s super expressive exploding from the glass with notes of spring flowers, pear, raspberries, herbs and brioche. At 6g dosage and a blend of 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay it’s dry but full of fruit, and the texture is at once lush and crisp. This is accessible, affordable, downright tasty Champagne – full of character, flavor, and life.
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“Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis…
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“Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis Basset family’s horticultural roots. It comes from 50 year-old Syrah vines, which give exceptional depth and intensity. It’s noticeably more concentrated and intense than Étincelle, shows a bit more new oak, and offers more complexity — a bit of black olive and smokiness along with the fruit. It can be cellared for up to eight or ten years.
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Lespault-Martillac’s 2016 blanc is a blend of 70% Sauvignon…
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Lespault-Martillac’s 2016 blanc is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon – it’s barrel fermented and then given a 10 month elevage. The nose is dry, floral, and expressive with notes of citrus, lavender, lime zest and candle wax. The mouth is simply beautiful – fully mature with terrific tension and chalky minerality amid the beautiful golden pear fruit. The Wine Advocate’s reviewer gave 92 points, finding “oodles of freshness and plenty of pear-laced flavor;” Antonio Galloni in Vinous called it “one of the more pleasant wines” of the vintage. We put this in the same class as a well aged white Burgundy, maybe from Puligny or St-Aubin – serve with a fine meal on a weekend afternoon. 
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Boursot’s newest cuvée is their Savigny-les-Beaune, a village that…
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Boursot’s newest cuvée is their Savigny-les-Beaune, a village that comes with less fame and a significant discount from the better known appellations. Savigny’s terroir naturally tends toward linear wines with tension and minerals, notes that play beautifully in a year of heat and drought. The Boursots use 25% amphora and 25% oak for this cuvée, and the result is a pleasant, fresh, extremely drinkable wine. The nose shows cherries and limestone, the mouth is floral and pleasant, with delicate tannins amid the deep inky fruit. Bill Nanson of the “Burgundy Report” writes “wide and perfumed…you might guess Chambolle…simply excellent.” Serve this with duck confit or a creamy chicken, and watch the wine slice effortlessly through the fat.
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Justine Clerget now runs her tiny family estate…
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Justine Clerget now runs her tiny family estate in Vougeot. Since her arrival she’s introduced organic viticulture, refined extraction, and added some whole cluster fermentation. The resulting wines are superb modern Burgundies, full and long with excellent detail and perfect balance. If this is what the Burgundy of the future tastes like, sign us up.Bourgogne 2023, JM 88-89:"Bright mid ruby with a pleasing fresh red fruit. Old vines did not yield too much. Very lively on the palate, with a deep almost lush cherry and raspberry fruit with a well-disciplined finish. Delicious."
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At the Domaine Roger Belland, the domaine is…
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At the Domaine Roger Belland, the domaine is located in Santenay, a town more known for its reds than its whites, but with a flagship monopole in Chassagne-Montrachet’s Morgeot sector, the Clos Pitois. We have chosen the wines that lead the pack here, from both red and white vineyards across the southern Côte d’Or.Gravières Premier Cru 2024 is often called the town’s best vineyard. The nose is subtler and more complex than the Maranges, with fruit that recalls wild strawberries more than blackcurrants. The Domaine chose to use 40% whole clusters, yielding freshness and lifted aromatics. It’s a more elegant profile that will offer a dry, refined take on the vintage, and promises a longer life than the Maranges.
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