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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of…
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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift.“Colline de Couzou,” is unusually dense and delicious this year – tasted blind we would have guessed it was “Rochins,” one of the single vineyard cuvées. The nose shows douglas fir spice and blackberries; the mouth is long and sleek. Vinous’s reviewer found “fresh violets, red and black cherries, pencil shavings, cedar,” writing “this finishes with great energy.”
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Vinous’s Nicholas Greinacher puts it well:  “Seldom does Syrah produce wines of such elegance…
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Vinous’s Nicholas Greinacher puts it well:  “Seldom does Syrah produce wines of such elegance and detail as it does in Côte-Rôtie, evoking characteristics often associated with Pinot Noir. Usually medium-bodied at most and often red-fruited and hauntingly floral, these wines can dazzle with refinement and finesse.” For more than 20 years we have watched winemaker Christophe Bonnefond's style evolve to emphasize more and more these special characteristics, and the term “dazzling” is often an apt description for his results.Bonnefond's regular cuvée Côte Rôtie Cuvée “Colline de Couzou” is particularly impressive for its balance.  There is plenty of freshness, but it supports beautifully ripe fruit with a fine mouthfeel with papery tannins and a silky finish.  A mineral line joins in, adding slightly earthy notes like black olives; and the nose adds spice, black pepper, and floral overtones of violets.
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Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous writes “the 2020s are shaping up…
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Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous writes “the 2020s are shaping up to be as impressive, especially in terms of elegance, as any bottlings I have experienced here.” Having bought here for nearly 20 years, we agree — the wines have never been better.Vinous 94. "Primary red and blue fruit, violet, allspice and olive on the highly fragrant nose, where a smoky mineral nuance adds vibrant lift. Appealingly sweet, energetic blueberry, cherry and exotic spice flavors spread out steadily on the palate, picking up hints of spiciness and licorice on the back half. Finishes long and lively, with sharp clarity and silky tannins that provide closing shape and grip."
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2019 was the fifth in a string of wonderful vintages in the Northern Rhône…
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2019 was the fifth in a string of wonderful vintages in the Northern Rhône. As Vinous’s Josh Raynolds reported, “2019 was a hot and dry year, but the wines look extremely promising and show an uncanny blend of depth and vivacity.”The regular cuvée of Côte Rôtie “Colline de Couzou” offers a beautiful nose of sweet fruit mixed with aromas of violets and smoke. It is just lovely in the mouth, with plenty of body. Raynolds called it “hefty and broad yet lively as well, finishing with well-judged tannins and strong, floral-driven persistence.”
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Josh Raynolds (91-93 points) found the regular cuvée “sweet, seamless, and focused on the…
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Josh Raynolds (91-93 points) found the regular cuvée “sweet, seamless, and focused on the palate, where a smoky mineral quality sharpens primary black/blue fruit liqueur flavors.” He is right.We found it richer than the 2016, but the weight of the wine is enormously attractive; it’s in the heart of the sweet spot between too much extraction and too little.
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Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond’s 2016s “as graceful a group of wines as I’ve…
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Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond’s 2016s “as graceful a group of wines as I’ve ever sampled.” And graceful is an apt word -- they are long and silky, with beautiful tension and gorgeous texture. The 2016 Côte Rôtie “Colline de Couzou” shows notes of anise, plum jam, and cloves. Vinous awarded 92 points, finding “cassis and violet,” “an energizing jolt of cracked pepper,” and calling it “sappy, smooth and long.”
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The Bonnefonds produce exceptional red wines, with notes of dark fruits and spice. They…
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The Bonnefonds produce exceptional red wines, with notes of dark fruits and spice. They are rich without being heavy – only 13% alcohol – and there’s an attractive liveliness often lacking in Syrah from the Southern Hemisphere. Bonnefond wines will age with no trouble for ten or more years.Their  Côte Rôtie shows plum, roasted meats and black pepper; the mouth is spiced and dense, showing olives and dark chocolate, and a hint of smoke. The inky tannins here are firm but not harsh, and with a few hours in a carafe this is a lovely glass of wine. We wouldn’t be the first to volunteer to work the vertigo-inducing “fields” of Bonnefond’s vineyards, but we’re certainly glad someone does.
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