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Gautier’s 2022s show a talented winemaker firing on all cylinders. He has refined his…
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Gautier’s 2022s show a talented winemaker firing on all cylinders. He has refined his cellar technique considerably, using gentler extractions, and focused his barrel work through exhaustive (some might say obsessive) experimentation and tasting. The resulting wines easily rival reds from the Côte d’Or in detail and complexity, and simply blow them away on price.Givry 1er cru “Clos Charlé” is detailed and sophisticated – higher toned and with more chiseled detail than his other premier crus. It’s particularly good in 2022, and easily worth the $6 upgrade from the village. The nose shows peony, wild cherries, and a delicate stoniness. The mouth is darker but retains a vibrant minerality alongside the inky fruit. Serve with a roast chicken on a cozy Sunday afternoon.
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The Maconnais domaine that produces Forces Telluriques has been certified biodynamic for over 30…
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The Maconnais domaine that produces Forces Telluriques has been certified biodynamic for over 30 years, and they’re true believers: minimal vineyard intervention in the vines, meticulous and hands-off winemaking. William Kelley calls them “one of the best producers in the Mâconnais “ producing “ honeyed, concentrated wines that are imbued with remarkable concentration and energy.”The Forces Telluriques vines are between 30 and 100 years old, producing gorgeous, concentrated juice. The wine is raised in enameled vats without any oak. The 2022 vintage is superb, round and full in the mouth yet offering memorable lemony freshness (the alcohol level is just 13%). There is plenty of complexity, as mineral notes join the fruit; and the wine persists on the palate beautifully. Jasper Morris writes: “deliciously floral…amazing how such a luxurious style of chardonnay can retain elegance.”
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father…
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.Gros's only white wine comes from the Hautes Côte’s Fontaine St. Martin, and shows that a skilled maker of red Burgundy can also show a deft touch with white. Neal Martin found “good weight and energy” and a “fresh nose of yellow fruit, hints of nectarine, and chai tea.” Under $50, it offers excellent value for a barrel-raised Burgundy.
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A humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless attention to detail, Gautier landed at…
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A humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless attention to detail, Gautier landed at his family’s domaine a decade ago, and has since transformed it into one of the region’s superstars. We find ourselves saying this almost every year, but his 2023s are the best he’s made – ripe and sleek with perfect extraction and maturity, vibrant textures, and elegant, lifting finishes. Gautier called them “digeste” (roughly, “digestible”), which is an excellent characterization.First, Givry 1er Grand Berge, a large premier cru near the south of town. This has a deep floral nose of roses and stones. The mouth is smooth and delicious with fresh strawberry fruit and a smooth dose of sucrocité. The finish is fresh and very clean, without an ounce of heaviness or raspiness – it’s classically Burgundian, a perfect mixture of fruit, stone and earth.
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father…
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.The regular Hautes Côtes red cuvée is pretty and juicy in 2023. Burghound found “both good volume and vibrancy to the delicious middle-weight flavors, and indeed the wine has pleasant freshness and will begin drinking well before long."
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Poggerino, in Radda in Chianti, is one of the reference-point estates for pure, terroir-driven…
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Poggerino, in Radda in Chianti, is one of the reference-point estates for pure, terroir-driven Sangiovese. Under Piero Lanza, the domaine has built a decades-long reputation for meticulous vineyard work and restrained, traditional winemaking, producing wines that emphasize clarity, balance, and site expression. Antonio Galloni has called them “some of the purest expressions of the Sangiovese grape in Italy.”For a number of years now, Piero has made a new cuvée raised in cement eggs – hence the wordplay in the name Nuovo. Cement eggs have the virtue of self-stirring, as ambient temperature changes affect the wine in the eggs at different rates, promoting a natural circulation without the need for physical stirring. With no oak flavor mixed in, this wine has particularly pure fruit. The less porous cement makes a wine that evolves more slowly, and as Galloni awarded the 2021 vintage 93+ points, he opined that the wine would need a number of years to show its best. He found dark red fruit with a touch of mint, spice, and licorice.
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in the challenging 2024 vintage. We've long…
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in the challenging 2024 vintage. We've long been fans of his wines, and it was gratifying to see Vinous's Neal Martin heap praise on Gautier's thoughtful winemaking, citing their commendable purity and fine tannins. These were among the most successful red Burgundies we tasted from the vintage, and we think they are wines any red Burgundy collector would be proud to serve at the table.Gautier has managed the balance of tannin, acidity, fruit, and weight with impeccable precision in the 2024 Champ la Dame. Elegant, fresh, and vibrant, it opens with notes of violets and cassis before revealing an irresistible texture of silky, fine-grained tannins with mouthwatering tension and finesse. This is an exceptionally balanced village Givry that will be delicious from the start.
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