Holiday: Starter Kits

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Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their…
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Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual.Belland’s Santenay 1er cru “Gravières” 2020 highlights the virtue of the best 2020s: though the vintage is a very ripe one, the dryness left enough acidity in the grapes to keep the wines fresh and vibrant. Thus the wines are well balanced and should age beautifully. Allen Meadows (“Burghound”) praised the Gravières 2020 for its “intense and elegant floral-suffused nose,” finding “black cherry liqueur, soft spice, and earth.” It’s 40% whole cluster fermentation this year, giving excellent definition to the lush fruit.
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This wine transcends the genre in a way few other bottles do – if…
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This wine transcends the genre in a way few other bottles do – if you told us it was a village Gevrey we’d believe you – humble in appellation, but striking in taste. Cheron used 100% whole clusters, adding definition to the dark fruit.This is the most complex and elegant red Bourgogne in our portfolio. The nose is deep and beautiful with intense dark fruit but excellent lift – there’s a stony earthiness behind the plums that’s balanced and enticing. The mouth is clear, long, and nimble, bouncing from wild cherries to anise to black pepper and back to cassis. Burghound praised its “racy, delicious, well detailed flavors.” It offers immediate enjoyment, but should cellar a year or two with ease.
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Ragot’s 2023 Clos Jus is terrific. It’s 85% raised in barrel (40% new) and…
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Ragot’s 2023 Clos Jus is terrific. It’s 85% raised in barrel (40% new) and the rest in amphora, with 25% whole cluster. This recipe makes for a serious red Burgundy, and the wine has the presence and texture of a village-level Gevrey-Chambertin. The nose is dark and sappy with impressively complex layers of spice, blackberry, cherry and stones. The mouth is rich and dense but with exceptional tension and freshness – it’s a dynamic wine in a way that much sub-$50 red Burgundy is not.Neal Martin of Vinous gave it 91 points, finding a “bouquet of crushed strawberry, cranberry and lightly pressed flower.” In the mouth he noted “fine tannins, well balanced and refined,” concluding “this is another delicious Givry from Nicolas Ragot.”
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Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for…
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Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for success in the insular world of Burgundian vignerons where most inherit vines, and people even from the Maconnais (an hour south) are considered out of towners. And yet she’s cracked into the elite world of Côte d’Or winemaking. She’s a real winemaking talent, of course, but we’re betting her charming smile and disarmingly friendly demeanor go a long way. Her style is clear and juicy – the wines are packed with flavor, limited oak, and flat-out delicious textures.Not long ago Sofie purchased the Clos Sous le Chateau, a small monopole in St. Romain, which is perched at the very top of the valley that runs west from Meursault. The 2023 vintage of this wine is excellent, with its elevation providing fine definition and energy.  The nose has the precision of a Puligny, and in the mouth there is good concentration. Its persistence on the palate signals a wine that will mature gracefully.
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Romain Collet’s 2023 Chablis 1er “Montée de Tonnerre” provides terrific value. It’s one of…
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Romain Collet’s 2023 Chablis 1er “Montée de Tonnerre” provides terrific value. It’s one of his most impressive cuvées – regal, refined, complex and vibrant. He’s got exceptional terroir, and he knows how to use it. There’s everything at once – richness, depth, stoniness, length, and polish.Jasper Morris found that “white clay with plenty of stones lend it some Left Bank minerality, but the superb exposure of the hillside allows the Right Bank richness of fruit to dominate.” We think Collet’s 2023 Montée de Tonnerre shows the completeness for which the vineyard is famous. Serve this with a fine dish from the sea – lobster, scallops, branzino, dover sole, swordfish, etc.
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Gérard Thomas’s white Burgundies are always the first we offer of the vintage, and…
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Gérard Thomas’s white Burgundies are always the first we offer of the vintage, and as usual it’s an excellent place to start. They’re decidedly old-school in texture, ranging from 11.5% to 12% in alcohol, and sporting a refined daintiness that’s impossible to resist. These wines will arrive as winter turns to spring, and we expect them to suit the warmer weather season perfectly.Thomas’s St-Aubin is a blend of several village level plots, a noticeable step up in complexity. The nose shows gardenia, hints of oak, and white pepper. The mouth is lovely, with a deep savory palate of grapeskin and lemon zest. At 12% alcohol it’s light on its feet, but with gorgeous fruit and a lovely vibrant texture.
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Château Larrieu-Terrefort is sourced through the classic Bordeaux négociant model, representing a traditional expression…
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Château Larrieu-Terrefort is sourced through the classic Bordeaux négociant model, representing a traditional expression of Margaux from the Left Bank.This 2020 Margaux is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, offering a classic Left-Bank profile. The excellent vintage brings signature elegance and precision along with terrific density and a velvety smooth mouthfeel. The nose shows sweet spice and oak, while the mouth is fine and long with a delicate balance and very long finish. This will benefit from a few hours in a carafe or a year or two in bottle, but should be terrific either way.
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