Holiday: Supplies

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Vincent Boyer somehow continues to fly a bit under the radar of much of…
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Vincent Boyer somehow continues to fly a bit under the radar of much of the international wine press. He’s an insiders’ producer with a mouthwatering collection of terroirs; together with his sister Sylvie who handles much of the viticulture, they continue to turn out magnificent expressions of their unparalleled terroir. Boyer’s 2023s are simply delicious – juicy and fleshy and approachable, but with excellent tension and low alcohol.The Bourgogne Côte d’Or comes from vines around Meursault, and shows its village of origin. The nose is lovely and sophisticated, with sweet yellow fruits and a savory element. The mouth is dry and firm with terrific length and excellent energy. It’s unusually serious this year – tasted blind you might guess a village St-Aubin.
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Denis Basset produces delicious all-Syrah red wine in Crozes-Hermitage, the modest close relation of…
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Denis Basset produces delicious all-Syrah red wine in Crozes-Hermitage, the modest close relation of the superstar appellations of Hermitage, Côte Rôtie and Cornas. Happily, the pricing is decidedly also modest, and over a decade or so Domaine Saint Clair has developed a loyal following among friends of Ansonia Wines. As you have heard us say before, the greatest expression of any grape comes at the northern end of its range, which explains the Northern Rhône where Syrah makes superb reds without an assist from Grenache or other red grapes from farther South.Basset has a small plot in St. Joseph across the Rhône on a hillside so steep and hard to work that he named the cuvée “Les Abimes de l’Enfer.” St. Joseph is a sort of junior version of its next door neighbor Cornas. It is a bigger wine than the Crozes, with more tannins and more time to its peak, but it also provides excellent value. The fruits are darker than the Crozes with notes of fig, blackberry jam, spice and pepper.
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Sébastien Giroux is a first-rate winemaker with vines across the hills surrounding Fuissé, including…
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Sébastien Giroux is a first-rate winemaker with vines across the hills surrounding Fuissé, including Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché, and Mâcon-Fuissé. He refuses to be rushed into bottling, believing each wine should remain in élevage until it is truly ready. The result is a collection of remarkably expressive white Burgundies that consistently deliver far more character and complexity than their appellations might suggest.Raised half in tank and half in oak barrels of varying ages, the 2022 Pouilly-Fuissé is mouthfilling and round while remaining beautifully balanced. The nose shows a classy reductive character reminiscent of Puligny or Meursault, while the palate combines impressive depth with a dry core wrapped in balanced yellow fruit. It is drinking exceptionally well today.
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The Gerard Thomas 2021s show neither the concentration nor the ripeness of the last…
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The Gerard Thomas 2021s show neither the concentration nor the ripeness of the last three scorching years, but instead carry a daintiness and precision that some (including us) find a welcome relief.The village level St-Aubin Champ Tirant is more earthy and savory than the Bourgogne, with less cream in the nose – it’s long in the mouth, with an easygoing mouthfeel and fresh finish. Jancis Robinson’s reviewer found “rich, broad fruit with precise, sculpted purity and freshness,” and “well-judged oak.”
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The blanc de blancs Crémant Jean-Baptiste Chautard, named for the Founder, is the Maison Picamelot’s flagship wine. …
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The blanc de blancs Crémant Jean-Baptiste Chautard, named for the Founder, is the Maison Picamelot’s flagship wine.  The current offering is from the 2016 harvest and a part spends time in oak barrels. With seven years on the lees it has developed plenty of complexity. The fruit recalls pear and apricot, and there are notes of brioche and oak alongside.We cellar some of this wine in the bottle and recently have opened strikingly good bottles from the harvests of 2012 and 2015. During warehouse tastings last fall we put the 2015 up against some true Champagne – the Chautard more than acquitted itself (at half the price) and to some tasters won outright.
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father…
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.The regular Hautes Côtes red cuvée is very nice in 2022, garnering a designation from Allen Meadows (Burghound) for wines he judges to be “particularly outstanding for their respective appellations.” Vinous’s Neal Martin found it “particularly aromatic” and praised its “sweet entry” and “gentle grip.”
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