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 | The Gerard Thomas 2021s show neither the concentration nor the ripeness of the last… More (+) The Gerard Thomas 2021s show neither the concentration nor the ripeness of the last three scorching years, but instead carry a daintiness and precision that some (including us) find a welcome relief.The 2021 vintage, with its modest ripeness and concentration, has allowed Puligny’s true character to shine through once again, and Thomas’s Puligny 1er cru “La Garenne” is a lovely example. The nose is chalky and precise with delicate white flowers and lime zest. The mouth is terrific, an honest, graceful Puligny free to be itself. Less (-) | |
 | After three vintages characterized by extraordinary heat and historically early harvests, 2021 is a… More (+) After three vintages characterized by extraordinary heat and historically early harvests, 2021 is a return to typical in terms of weight, ripeness and richness. It is what the French like to call “classique” and its virtue is in approachability and elegance rather than boldness.The Maison Lestimé Chassagne-Montrachet 2021 is from down in the village, at a much lower elevation than the Hautes Côtes, and the wine shows the difference: the fruit is darker, with the intensity of wild strawberries, and the texture more that of a typical Burgundy vintage before the hot years. It is really quite lovely, with good precision and enough material to support some evolution over the next five years or so. Less (-) | |
 | The regular Cornas is a blend from fifteen different parcels, and is raised for… More (+) The regular Cornas is a blend from fifteen different parcels, and is raised for 14 months in four-year old barrels. Jeb Dunnuck awarded 92-94, finding “more ripeness and texture than just about every other Cornas out there.” He went on to find notes of “ripe blackberries, mulberries, spicy herbs and earth,” with “terrific mid-palate depth and ripe tannins.” Less (-) | |
 | Sofie Bohrmann typically makes three St-Aubin premier cru cuvées, but the dramatic loss (on… More (+) Sofie Bohrmann typically makes three St-Aubin premier cru cuvées, but the dramatic loss (on average 85% down across her whole domaine) meant she only had enough for a single cuvée. The blend of three of St. Aubin’s best vineyards – Le Puits, En Remilly, and Murgers des Dents de Chien – is very impressive. We certainly wouldn’t wish it on her every year, but we applaud what she managed to turn in.The 2021 St-Aubin 1er cru is sophisticated and gorgeous. It’s low on sucrocité, that sense of sweet young fruit often found in young white Burgundy – instead there’s a beautiful savoriness that mixes with dry lemon and pear notes. The signature 2021 freshness joins a smooth, waxy texture to create a wine of real elegance and precision. Less (-) | |
 | “Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris of the 2022 red Burgundies; “very good wines… More (+) “Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris of the 2022 red Burgundies; “very good wines and plenty of them.” William Kelley calls them “succulent, suave and charming”, “offering excellence in both colors and in a wide variety of styles.” Roger Belland's reds are entirely classic, with ripe modern fruit but traditional, low-alcohol textures.The Chassagne 1er cru Clos Pitois is the family's monopole vineyard. The red delivers a dense, tightly packed structure and exceedingly fine grained, very ripe tannins. Its dark, beautifully ripe fruit unfolds slowly in the glass, hinting at fine things to come as the wine evolves. We expect this wine to age beautifully, hitting its stride in four or five years Less (-) | |
| | The Cornas 2022 is delicious -- a big wine with an attractive mouthfeel. The dark… More (+) The Cornas 2022 is delicious -- a big wine with an attractive mouthfeel. The dark fruit, mingling with cloves and spice, emerges slowly in the glass. We think this wine will drink well immediately, and be really turning heads in a few years. Vinous found it “polished and forward” and praised the “glossy red fruits paired with spicy undertones of black pepper and licorice.” Like the St. Joseph, this wine should offer years of drinking pleasure. Less (-) | |
 | In recent years the Northern Rhône valley has become a source of unusual value… More (+) In recent years the Northern Rhône valley has become a source of unusual value. As prices in Burgundy have skyrocketed, and prices in Bordeaux have whipsawed back and forth, Côte Rôtie and Cornas have maintained a steady, modest rise. The wines have never been better, and suddenly they seem like bargains.Rochins comes from 60+ year old vines in a parcel just next to the famous Côte Blonde and Côte Brune. The nose is dark and woodsy with an irresistible mixture of spices, wild cherries, smoke and violets. The mouth is velvety and beautiful, still with plenty of material but beginning to put on a smooth patina now six years after harvest. Less (-) | |
| | Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for… More (+) Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for success in the insular world of Burgundian vignerons where most inherit vines, and people even from the Maconnais (an hour south) are considered out of towners. And yet she’s cracked into the elite world of Côte d’Or winemaking. She’s a real winemaking talent, of course, but we’re betting her charming smile and disarmingly friendly demeanor go a long way. Her style is clear and juicy – the wines are packed with flavor, limited oak, and flat-out delicious textures.The side valley between Chassagne and Puligny holds the better-known town of St. Aubin, and the Domaine owns a parcel there in the celebrated premier cru “En Remilly.” The 2023 vintage is an elegant wine with excellent length. Sofie’s signature compact yellow fruit is here in spades, balanced expertly with the stoniness for which St-Aubin is known. This is classic dry St. Aubin, with floral notes in play alongside the concentrated ripe fruit. Less (-) |