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 | Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated white Burgundies in our cellar. His… More (+) Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated white Burgundies in our cellar. His style is one of restraint and precision. We think of them as “minimalist” white wines — what’s not there (oak, butter, heaviness) is as important as what is there. Morey’s Puligny vines are in Truffiere, a premier cru near the top of the slope near La Garenne. These wines typically need a year or more after bottling to show their real character, and the 2023 is likely to tread the same path. It’s chiseled and precise with delicate fruit and mid-acidity. From Morris: “A gorgeous bouquet, fully ripe but with energy, yellow and green fruit once could almost say, ripe limes and mirabelle. 13.3% natural which makes a great balance. This is all very primary but will make a gorgeous bottle, accessible quite early. Fine ripe citrus finish.” Less (-) | |
 | Yann Chave’s domaine began in 1970, when his parents made their first purchase of… More (+) Yann Chave’s domaine began in 1970, when his parents made their first purchase of vines and fruit trees in Crozes-Hermitage. After years in Paris, Yann returned home in the 1990s to focus the estate on fine wine, building an impressive reputation in the process. Jancis Robinson writes of his “really artisanal wine with masses of integrity and bags of personality,” while the Wine Advocate calls it “one of the most exciting estates in Crozes-Hermitage.”The Hill of Hermitage has been famous for centuries. Yann Chave’s Hermitage 2023 offers a beautiful floral nose dominated by violets, superb balance across the palate, plenty of concentration without heaviness, and a long, lingering finish. Vinous scored it 94 points, noting “alluring orange rind, crushed violets, white pepper, raspberry compote and softly suggested cedar,” and finding the wine “bursting with aromatic complexity and masterful refinement.” Less (-) | |
| | Thomas Morey's wines are always clean, precise, and elegant. The 2024 vintage is an… More (+) Thomas Morey's wines are always clean, precise, and elegant. The 2024 vintage is an excellent showcase for his style, with finished wines that are fine examples of what Jasper Morris MW admiringly describes as the "chiselled Thomas Morey style."Like all young Puligny-Montrachet, the 2024 Truffière rewards patience. The bouquet is floral with serious concentration behind the perfume, showing lime notes, impressive tension, and a substantial core of fruit. We found it reductive, stony, and slate-driven, with freshness that comes from the stones more than the acidity and an impossibly long finish. Fans of great Puligny should consider putting this in the cellar. Less (-) | |
 | BURGHOUND (88-91): This also displays enough wood to notice but it’s a bit more… More (+) BURGHOUND (88-91): This also displays enough wood to notice but it’s a bit more completely integrated on the dark berry fruit liqueur-like nose that evidences plenty of earth and humus influence. The ripe and lightly mineral inflected medium weight flavors possess a velvety mouth feel as well as fine volume, all wrapped in a very solidly complex, balanced and lingering finish where a touch of wood resurfaces. A very good Nuits villages. Less (-) | |
 | Now 18 years on from harvest, this wine is old enough to vote (no… More (+) Now 18 years on from harvest, this wine is old enough to vote (no word on its political preferences), but it’s remarkably youthful. We recently enjoyed one of the last magnums of our 2002 from Bardoux, which was mature and delicious but not the least bit tired. The 2004 vintage produced wines with a bit more structure, and these recently disgorged magnums have the capacity for plenty of additional cellaring.The blend is 20% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, and 50% Chardonnay, with an 8g/L dosage. The nose is terrific, with woodsy, savory notes alongside the pear fruit. In the mouth is chalky and fine, with an astonishing level of vibrancy for its age. Look for notes of rhubarb, cooked apples and raspberry across a beautifully textured palate. Less (-) | |
 | Finally the Boursot family’s gem is their plot of 75+ year-old vines in “Les Fuées,”… More (+) Finally the Boursot family’s gem is their plot of 75+ year-old vines in “Les Fuées,” the Chambolle 1er cru abutting the iconic Bonne Mares Grand Cru. Planted by Romaric and Romault’s grandfather in the 1940s, the vines produce low yields of extremely intense, powerful wine. Add that to a famously rich terroir and a deep, concentrated vintage and you have the makings of seriously impressive wine. If the village wine will benefit from time, the Fuées will need it; but we expect a very bright future. The nose is inky and expansive, with rose petals, baking spices, dried flowers and cassis. The mouth is bold and muscled with remarkable length. “A very classy bottle – the finish is superb,” writes Bill Nanson. Less (-) | |
 | Vincent Boyer and his sister Sophie are the winemakers at this gem of an… More (+) Vincent Boyer and his sister Sophie are the winemakers at this gem of an estate in Meursault. They farm a mouthwatering collection of vines in and around Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, including all three famous Meursault premier crus. They farm organically, and use a long elevage in barrels then concrete eggs to give their wines a regal depth and complexity. These are some of our favorite white Burgundies from anywhere.Boyer’s Meursault 1er Charmes, usually the fattest and richest of the bunch, is excellent again this year. The nose is deeply floral with notes of pear and stones. The mouth is fresher and more vibrant than usual this year, with a touch of sucrocité balanced on a beam of tension. Burghound similarly found “excellent energy” and a “tension-filled, linear finish.” He counsels drinking after 2030, but given how well the 2022s are drinking already (“difficult to resist” says Vincent himself), this will be terrific even next year. Less (-) | |
| | BURGHOUND (89-91): The spicier aromas of dark currant, newly turned earth and game nuances… More (+) BURGHOUND (89-91): The spicier aromas of dark currant, newly turned earth and game nuances to shine. The medium weight flavors are not quite as dense but they’re more refined thanks to the finer-grain of the supporting tannins on the lightly mineral-inflected finale. Note that even though the tannins are finer they’re also denser and this too will need a few years first Less (-) |