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 | The Godon-Reverdys are from a storied Sancerre family that has produced wine in Sancerre… More (+) The Godon-Reverdys are from a storied Sancerre family that has produced wine in Sancerre for generations. They’re certified organic, and in fact use many biodynamic treatments they find useful, as well as a team of sheep to keep grasses down and soil fertilized. Their wines are classic Sancerre, and among the most popular in the store.Alliance ‘24 offers beautiful sauvignon fruit with aromatic overlays of grapefruit and some orchard fruit, perhaps white peach. Alliance is generous for a Sancerre, but in the mouth there’s a spine of freshness that keeps the wine bright enough through the palate. It is classic and delicious. Less (-) | |
 | Denis Basset produces delicious all-Syrah red wine in Crozes-Hermitage, the modest close relation of… More (+) Denis Basset produces delicious all-Syrah red wine in Crozes-Hermitage, the modest close relation of the superstar appellations of Hermitage, Côte Rôtie and Cornas. Happily, the pricing is decidedly also modest, and over a decade or so Domaine Saint Clair has developed a loyal following among friends of Ansonia Wines. As you have heard us say before, the greatest expression of any grape comes at the northern end of its range, which explains the Northern Rhône where Syrah makes superb reds without an assist from Grenache or other red grapes from farther South.Saint Clair’s old vine cuvée is called “Fleur Enchantée.” It is more serious and ageworthy than Étincelle and raised entirely in oak barrels. The 2023 Fleur Enchantée is delicious, with plenty of density and concentration. There’s a touch of menthol mingling with the fruit, and at 13% alcohol the balance of the wine is perfect. You can start sampling this right away, but over the next year or so it will add some velvet in the mouth and complexity in the nose. Less (-) | |
 | Basset’s white Crozes-Hermitage “Un Matin” has an enthusiastic following, not only among Ansonia clients but among… More (+) Basset’s white Crozes-Hermitage “Un Matin” has an enthusiastic following, not only among Ansonia clients but among restaurants in his region. In fact we had to wait a few years before we were allocated any, so popular is the wine among local restaurateurs. It is easy to see why: “Un Matin” is an aromatic and expressive blend of Marsanne and Roussane that recalls Condrieu in its unctuous texture and exuberant nose. To maintain freshness, Denis planted additional Marsanne about five years ago, and those grapes, raised in stainless steel, are now finding their way into the wine. The Roussanne gets about seven months of aging in oak barrels, which provides the roundness and gras (“fat”) that makes the wine so appealing as an aperitif. The final blend is a delicious combination of 55% Marsanne and 45% Roussanne. Less (-) | |
 | The Loire Valley continues to be one of the most exciting corners of winemaking… More (+) The Loire Valley continues to be one of the most exciting corners of winemaking in France, where organic viticulture, balanced wines, and affordable prices are the rule rather than the exception. Our source for these reds is the Domaine des Sanzay, a fifth generation organic domaine in Saumur-Champigny in the central Loire. Their unblended Cabernet Franc wines have become highly popular in our warehouse, opening tasters’ eyes to a new expression of the grape.The Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes spends a year in big barrels and the current release is the 2023. It’s darker and more serious than the regular cuvée, with the old vines bringing concentration and depth of flavor. The nose is dried roses and wild cherries; the mouth is dark and rugged with earthy notes and a delicious saline finish. The old-vine cuvée lasts far longer on the palate, with more supporting tannin. Less (-) | |
 | Poggerino, in Radda in Chianti, is one of the reference-point estates for pure, terroir-driven… More (+) Poggerino, in Radda in Chianti, is one of the reference-point estates for pure, terroir-driven Sangiovese. Under Piero Lanza, the domaine has built a decades-long reputation for meticulous vineyard work and restrained, traditional winemaking, producing wines that emphasize clarity, balance, and site expression. Antonio Galloni has called them “some of the purest expressions of the Sangiovese grape in Italy.”The backbone of Poggerino’s production has always been the Chianti Classico — the “Annata” or “vintage” wine that is released two years after the harvest. The Annata is always lithe and elegant, pairing well with a broad range of dishes. This year’s Annata is the 2023 vintage. As usual, Galloni is full of praise, finding that “dark red cherry, leather, lavender, spice and dried herbs all meld together in an open-knit, mid-weight wine that has so much to offer.” He went on to call it “pliant and inviting” and “an absolute delight.” Less (-) | |
 | Sébastien Giroux is a first-rate winemaker with vines across the hills surrounding Fuissé, including… More (+) Sébastien Giroux is a first-rate winemaker with vines across the hills surrounding Fuissé, including Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché, and Mâcon-Fuissé. He refuses to be rushed into bottling, believing each wine should remain in élevage until it is truly ready. The result is a collection of remarkably expressive white Burgundies that consistently deliver far more character and complexity than their appellations might suggest.Raised entirely in tank, the 2024 Les Pelées shows the freshness and energy of the vintage with good roundness in the mouth and longer persistence than one might expect from a regional wine. Sébastien calls it his "angular Mâcon," and there is indeed a dose of Chablisienne style here, making it an excellent choice for those who prefer tension and zip in their white Burgundy. Less (-) | |
| | Sébastien Giroux is a first-rate winemaker with vines across the hills surrounding Fuissé, including… More (+) Sébastien Giroux is a first-rate winemaker with vines across the hills surrounding Fuissé, including Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché, and Mâcon-Fuissé. He refuses to be rushed into bottling, believing each wine should remain in élevage until it is truly ready. The result is a collection of remarkably expressive white Burgundies that consistently deliver far more character and complexity than their appellations might suggest.Adjacent to Pouilly-Fuissé on the upper slope, Vers Chanes faces east and northeast, giving the wine a lively character and pleasant mineral line. The 2023 is round and mouthfilling, with more body than Les Pelées and a style that is classically Mâconnais. Its balance of freshness and flesh makes it an easy-drinking yet distinctive white Burgundy. Less (-) | |
 | The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge for nine generations. Today they raise… More (+) The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge for nine generations. Today they raise their fruits organically and biodynamically, and their crèmes are the cleanest, purest, most intense extraction of fruit we’ve ever seen. We’ll admit some skepticism as they explained that they play baroque music in their cave so the auditory vibrations can help the extraction — but one taste of these cremes and you won’t care what they do to make it.The French most often use these crèmes for a kir or kir royale — a glass of aligoté or sparkling wine with a splash of crème. It’s a refreshing, delightful cocktail that’s distinct, elegant, and festive. Less (-) |