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La Briccolina is the product of the Grasso family who have grown grapes here…
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La Briccolina is the product of the Grasso family who have grown grapes here for a century, but only recently started bottling their own wine. They produce a single cuvée, all from the Serralunga d’Alba terroir on the eastern side of the Barolo appellation. The soils are compact marls and sandstone with very high iron content, resulting in firm, mineral-driven wines of real character.The 2020's nose is exquisite – cherries and spices explode from the glass with notes of licorice, plum, lavender, cedar and mocha. The mouth is refined and pretty rather than big and tannic – with just half an hour in carafe it opens beautifully into a middleweight, delightful wine with notes of black cherry, iron, saline and dried roses. Vinous's Antonio Galloni also loved the 2020, awarding 93 points and finding it “soft, fruity and charming, all of which make it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next decade.”
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father…
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.Gevrey-Chambertin “La Platiere” is the latest addition to the village-level lineup. It’s a small plot, about the size of the Morey St. Denis parcel, and shows the power and dark fruit typical of Gevrey. In the 2022 Burghound found a nose of “poached plum, wild currant and warm earth,” and praised its “fine volume” and its “rich, caressing and velvet-textured middleweight flavors.” This wine shows the richness and roundness typical of Gevrey.
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Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for…
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Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for success in the insular world of Burgundian vignerons where most inherit vines, and people even from the Maconnais (an hour south) are considered out of towners. And yet she’s cracked into the elite world of Côte d’Or winemaking. She’s a real winemaking talent, of course, but we’re betting her charming smile and disarmingly friendly demeanor go a long way. Her style is clear and juicy – the wines are packed with flavor, limited oak, and flat-out delicious textures.From the “big three” towns, both Bohrmann’s Meursault “Les Vireuils” and her Puligny-Montrachet “Les Grands Champs” are particularly delicious this year.  Les Vireuils is all richness and roundness – classic Meursault mouthfeel – with a deft  touch of oak and enough supporting acidity to carry the wine for a number of years. This is beautifully channeled Meursault – not as big and buttery as at some domaines, but with all the power wrapped in a sophisticated package. 
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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of…
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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift.Rochins is always the more serious of the two – Vinous’s reviewer writes “as dark as a moonless night” – and offers excellent aging potential. The nose is dark and floral with black cherry and cocoa; the mouth is long and very dense with perfect balance and beautifully coated tannins.
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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of…
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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift.Côte Rozier will also benefit from bottle aging, but was already soaring and magnificent from barrel this spring. The nose is beautiful, a blend of violets, olive, and raspberry; the mouth is seamless and long; the ¾ whole cluster fermentation gives the texture an exquisite clarity and definition. Vinous’s reviewer writes; “framed by bright acidity and delightful purity of fruit, the 2023 is shaping up to be a distinctively elegant Côte Rozier.”
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Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to…
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Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to beginner’s luck. His father Michel is never far away with ready counsel and advice, but this is Pierre’s ship now, and he’s steering it beautifully. Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and his wines are clean and pure – they sport the same polish as his fathers’ with perhaps a bit more concentration of fruit and slightly longer finishes.The Chaliots vineyard lies to the south of the town of Nuits-St-Georges. In 2023 it showed particularly well from barrel, with ripe dark fruit, good concentration and excellent balance. An umami note typical of Nuits-St-Georges appears alongside cinnamon, licorice and violets, with an elegant nose and beguiling texture.
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2024 may have been a growing season to forget, the wines themselves were startlingly…
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2024 may have been a growing season to forget, the wines themselves were startlingly successful. They present a far lighter character than the powerful 2023s – fine tannin, delicate structures, silky textures and gorgeous, soaring aromatics. Léon judged the extraction expertly, and each cuvée was impeccably balanced. The Amiots told us they expect the wines to be approachable young, and indeed several wines from our tasting were difficult to spit out.The village-level Morey-St-Denis is a blend of several plots at the village level. The nose shows bright fresh cherries, with hints of earth and stones. The mouth is silky and smooth, with middle length and a clean, lace-like finish. Burghound found it “round, supple and middle-weight” with “good energy.” We think this will drink well from its arrival, particularly with a carafe.
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WA 94-96"When tasting the barrels likely to be part of the 2018 Cornas Vin…
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WA 94-96"When tasting the barrels likely to be part of the 2018 Cornas Vin Noir, it was immediately apparent that there's a step up in intensity, likely from the generally older vines that provide fruit for this cuvée. Violets and cassis in some instances, roasted meat and mocha in others, but always with great intensity. Full-bodied, velvety and plush, with long finishes, these components should yield an outstanding finished wine."
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