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 | As is often the case when a new generation joins in the winemaking, in… More (+) As is often the case when a new generation joins in the winemaking, in recent years the domaine has experimented with micro-cuvées. We found two particularly interesting. First, a cuvée raised in amphora, which allows micro-oxygenation at a level similar to that from small oak barrels, but without the addition of oak flavors. The result is a more fully developed wine, a bit more rounded out but maintaining the freshness of that 13% alcohol level. (This wine will bear the same Forces Telluriques label, but with orange wax around the cork to distinguish it from the gray wax of the regular cuvée). Morris was even more enthusiastic about this one, giving it his 5/5 star award, and writing: “love the balance of this…pears not peaches, with excellent length.” Less (-) | |
 | Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous writes “the 2020s are shaping up… More (+) Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous writes “the 2020s are shaping up to be as impressive, especially in terms of elegance, as any bottlings I have experienced here.” Having bought here for nearly 20 years, we agree — the wines have never been better.Bonnefond’s Condrieu is as good as they come, an opulent bouquet of white peach flowers, and on the palate rich, ripe fruit with an exotic touch: mango, apricot and pineapple. Condrieu isn’t meant for laying down, which is a good thing because you will want to keep reaching for a bottle of this. Less (-) | |
 | Vin Jaune represents the highest level of oxidative Savagnin from the Jura. The wine… More (+) Vin Jaune represents the highest level of oxidative Savagnin from the Jura. The wine spends more than six years under the veil, over which time a third of the volume evaporates, and the wine transforms into something intense, rich, and complex. Look for a dizzying array of flavors and aromas — walnuts, hazelnuts, caramel, curry, coffee, toast, butter, cocoa, citrus zest, and more.The wine comes in traditional 620ml bottles called “clavelins,” which represents about what’s left after six years of aging 1 liter of wine. What do you do with this wine? Easy — serve it with real Comté, at least 24-36 months old, for one of the world’s iconic food-wine pairings. Less (-) | |
 | 2019 was the fifth consecutive excellent vintage in the Northern Rhône. Like 2018, it… More (+) 2019 was the fifth consecutive excellent vintage in the Northern Rhône. Like 2018, it was hot and dry, but unlike 2018, the grapes developed thick skins and less juice. This reduced yields but offered the promise of higher quality in 2019 if the fruit was handled right.Tunnel’s wines are pure, inky syrah — a blend of Northern spiciness (think Bonnefond’s Côte Rôties) and southern sun. Josh Raynolds of Vinous awarded 92-94 points, finding the 2019 Cornas “in a juicy, fruit-driven style, offering appealingly sweet cherry, blackberry and cassis flavors;” and its finish “very long and smooth, with just a hint of fine-grained tannins and persistent spiciness.” Less (-) | |
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 | St. Estephe is at the northern end of the Haut Médoc, home to the… More (+) St. Estephe is at the northern end of the Haut Médoc, home to the likes of Chateau Cos d’Estournel and Chateau Montrose. The soils of St. Estephe have more clay than those of Pauillac to the immediate south, and this makes for big wines with a dark color and a long life.The 2019 Fleuron de Liot is intense and delicious, showing chocolate powder, black cherry, tobacco and faint herbs. There’s excellent density and perfectly coated tannins — we think this is a candidate to age nicely for 5-8 years. Less (-) | |
| | The Jura’s best known style of wine is its intentionally oxidized whites made from… More (+) The Jura’s best known style of wine is its intentionally oxidized whites made from the Savagnin grape. Rather than topping up the barrels to prevent exposure to oxygen, Jura winemakers allow a “voile” (veil) of yeast to form on the wine’s surface. The wine rests in barrel under veil for years, over which time the volume decreases and the otherworldly flavors develop.The 2014 Vin Jaune is a treat. The texture is dry and waxy – think a fino sherry but with much fuller and richer mouthfeel. Pair with comté and fondue and it’s one of iconic food-wine marriages of France. But another traditional pairing is our favorite -- chicken thighs in a cream reduction. Throw in some morels, and you’re in for a real experience. Less (-) |