Amiot Morey-St-Denis 1er cru “Aux Charmes” 2017

As the name suggests, Amiot’s Morey-St-Denis 1er cru “Aux Charmes” is charming. Large volume wine this is not — Amiot’s plot is just one acre, and their 50 year old vines produce only 200 cases per year. But the quality is simply exceptional.

Charmes is usually the first of Amiot’s premier crus to drink well, and though this should age gracefully for a decade or two, it’s already beautiful. Today the nose is very expressive, showing earthy tones mixed with woodsmoke and briary fruit. The mouth is long, silky, and very rich — the tannins are young but perfectly sculpted, with no dryness or bitterness.