Silk and Earth. The town of Morey-St-Denis is typical of the tiny scale of Burgundy. Home to fewer than 700 souls and boasting less than half a square mile of vineyards, the town has long played second fiddle to its more famous neighbors Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin. But in fact Morey holds five Grand Cru vineyards and produces excellent red Burgundies that age beautifully.
At their best, the wines of Morey-St. Denis show a beautiful lace-like minerality, and an elegance only possible in Pinot Noir from Burgundy. Our producer in Morey-St-Denis is the Domaine Pierre Amiot, which has a large range of wines from the town. Amiot’s wines often drink better after a few years in the bottle, so today we’re suggesting a Morey-St-Denis that’s just beginning to drink well.
Premier Cru. Amiot’s small plot in Millandes (just over an acre) yields only 200 cases a year; even less in a low yield vintage like 2010. But its location (adjoining the Grand Cru Clos St-Denis) and older vines (planted in the 1950s and 60s) make it a gem. With firm tannins and a concentrated mouthfeel, Millandes generally requires some cellaring to reach its peak; but recent tastings have shown this wine is well on its way to maturity.
The 2010 1er cru Millandes is a classic Morey-St-Denis — somewhere between the silkiness of Chambolle and the richness of Gevrey-Chambertin. Today the wine shows wild red cherries and raspberry jam, with hints of smoke, leather, and truffle in the mouth. The nose is expressive and enticing — just the marriage of earth and fruit for which Burgundy is so well known.
This Millandes is at the very beginning of its drinking window, and its youthful tannins have softened into a pleasant but firm structure. We find this makes for a more versatile food pairing wine, as there’s less concern a bold dish will shout down the contents of the glass. Decant this for an hour before serving, and try it with duck breasts, or even a cassoulet.
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AMIOT Morey-St-Denis 1er “Millandes” 2010
Ansonia Retail: $72
case, half-case: $64/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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