Pouilly-Fumé Returns: Rich, Energetic Old-Vine Sauvignon Blanc. $22

Winemaker Frederic Michot is as brisk and energetic as his wines. He talks (and drives) fast, and sports the same no-nonsense attitude found in a glass of his Pouilly-Fumé: pure Sauvignon blanc, no oak, clean and crisp.

Michot’s side of the river may be less famous than his neighbor Sancerre, but he isn’t willing to concede it any advantage. His wines are exceptional Sauvignon blancs, full of precision, focus, clean dry fruit, and beautiful tension.

Sancerre deserves its fame and acclaim; but Pouilly-Fumé is its scrappy underdog cousin, with just as much to offer, and at a better price.

Michot’s Pouilly-Fumé Vieilles Vignes is refreshing, unoaked, mouthfilling and utterly delicious. His 2018 old vine cuvée has just arrived — even in a sunny vintage Michot has managed to capture a bursting tension underneath the gorgeous fruit. There’s lots of inexpensive Sauvignon Blanc around — most of it isn’t half this good.

The nose shows mango, grapefruit rind, and straw; the mouth shows ripe grapefruit, lime rind, and honey. The wine is at once mouthfilling and electric, with the persistence of richness and freshness found in finest Sancerre.

It’s perfect for seafood: shrimp pasta, pan seared scallops, broiled haddock, etc. Or if fruits de mer aren’t your thing, try a glass with goat cheese on a crusty piece of French bread.


Michot Pouilly-Fumé VV 2018
bottle price: $22

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