In a Beaune restaurant last April we stumbled upon that most elusive of wine merchant targets: an unknown Burgundy domaine. Formed in 2002 with just 1.5 hectares of vines, the Domaine Bohrmann has no other importers, zero critical reviews, and hard-to-reach winemaker.
Bohrmann doesn’t sound very French, and it isn’t — Sofie Borhmann is Belgian, and splits her time between Belgium and Burgundy. We’re not sure where she’s been hiding, or why no other American importers have found her. But her wines simply blew us away, and we’re excited to return to taste next month.
Bohrmann’s full range of wines have been dazzling customers since they arrived last fall, but our favorite among them has been the St-Aubin 1er cru “En Remilly.”
Bohrmann’s style is low oak, pure fruit, and exquisitely balanced texture: richness, depth and energy all at once. Raised in only 15% new oak for a year, their St-Aubin 1er cru comes from “En Remilly,” one of the town’s best known vineyards. Tucked just over the hill from Montrachet Grand Cru, En Remilly is a south-facing premier cru that combines ripe fruit with classic minerality.
This wine is lively and generous at the same time: thick and full of a rippling intensity, combining perfectly ripe golden fruit with structure and minerality. There’s precision capable of enhancing your most refined dishes — sole meuniere, for example. The use of oak is perfect: support for the minerals and fruit, but without too much spice or toast.
Bohrmann St-Aubin 1er cru “En Remilly” 2017
bottle price: $49
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