Though it has no Grand Cru, the wines of Meursault are some of the most sought after in the world. Traditionally Meursault inhabits the decadent, opulent end of the white Burgundy spectrum, drawing on clay-heavy soils to produce muscular, mouthfilling white wines.
In recent years the style has shifted towards less fat and more tension, and the average Meursault today is livelier than it was 20 years ago. Vincent Boyer makes several cuvées in this more modern style, but today’s is a traditionalist. Drawing on 90+ year old vines for extra concentration and depth, the Meursault “Ormeau” is rich, decadent, and flat-out delicious.
Planted in 1924 by Vincent Boyer’s great grandmother Lucie, the “Ormeau” vineyard is named for the elm trees that once shared the clay-rich ground. This is classic, mouthfilling Meursault – showing peaches and citrus, with pear and a faint nuttiness in the nose. All of Boyer’s wines are rich, elegant, and complex, but “Ormeau” is among the most classically Meursault in the lineup.
The 2018 requires no patience, and we think — for the appellation and vigneron — it’s a relative bargain. We served it last night with chicken caesar salad, a perfect echo of the lemon-egg dressing. Burghound found it “ample, rich and caressing” with “a seductive mouthfeel” ending with “a clean and dry finish.”
We welcome Meursault’s new look, but it’s always nice to have an old reliable to fall back on.
Boyer-Martenot Meursault “Ormeau” 18
bottle price: $68
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