The changing climate has caused dramatic shifts amid the tiny microclimates of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. In a region where a few meters makes the difference between four-figure Grand Cru and $60 village, a couple degrees of warmer weather can have profound effect. And as with the rest of the world, there are winners and losers in this new reality.
Among the undisputed winners is the side valley of St-Aubin. With some of the highest elevation vines in the Côte d’Or, this appellation once on the margins of ripeness is increasingly right in the middle. We imagine vignerons roasting in August on the flat plains of Chassagne and Puligny might gaze longingly at the breezy St-Aubin vineyards a few hundred meters up the slope.
We’ve long loved the terroirs of St-Aubin, and are pleased to see them increasingly receiving their due – even if it’s meant they’re scarcer and pricier. We have several producers who farm here; our most recent addition is the Domaine Bohrmann.
Bohrmann’s style is low oak, pure fruit, and exquisitely balanced texture: richness, depth and energy all at once. Raised in only 15% new oak for a year, their St-Aubin 1er cru comes from “En Remilly,” considered one of the town’s top vineyards.
This wine is lively and generous at the same time: thick and full of a rippling intensity, combining perfectly ripe golden fruit with structure and minerality. There’s precision capable of enhancing your most refined dishes — sole meuniere, for example. The use of oak is perfect: support for the minerals and fruit, but without too much spice or toast.
Bohrmann St-Aubin 1er “En Remilly” 2019
bottle price: $59