Author: Thomas Wilcox

Romain Collet took over his family’s estate a decade, and has transformed it from a good if occasionally inconsistent source to a reliably excellent domaine. He’s expertly navigated the changing climate, which has affected Chablis perhaps more dramatically than other French region. Jasper Morris MW writes that he “is moving towards joining the pantheon” in Chablis; William Kelley writes that the wines “have taken another step up in quality…mark this out as an estate to follow closely.”

Collet’s 2022 village-level Chablis is simply delicious. A very ripe vintage and early harvest produced lush, abundant fruit with excellent concentration. And yet Romain harvested early enough (August 28th) to preserve the freshness and vibrant character of the wine. This unoaked, plum, energetic wine isn’t one for the back of the cellar – but it’s too tasty to last that long anyway.

Look for notes of green apple and lemon curd in the nose alongside chalk and oyster shells – the aromatics are exceptional this year, and more reminiscent of a premier cru. The mouth is punchy and fine, finishing very dry and clean. Serve this with Chicken Schnitzel.

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Collet Chablis 2022
bottle price: $29

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The quality of entry-level Burgundy has never been higher. Riper grapes and more controlled winemaking now produce Bourgogne-level wines that rival village-level wine for value and depth. We’re hardly the first to notice though, and the market has driven many Bourgogne prices well past $50, and more than a few into three figures.

But there are still hidden gems to be found in those golden hillsides. Today we present two terrific Bourgogne-level wines, one white from outside Meursault, and one red from outside Chambolle. These are among our favorite cuvées in the genre, and come with sub-$30 pricing through our upcoming September Futures issue.

We’ve got seven exciting producers to offer in our Futures Issue next week, but we’re opening the bidding early on these two today.

Bohrmann Bourgogne Blanc 2020
Savvy Ansonia readers might remark, “wait, didn’t you offer this before?” or “wait, wasn’t Bohrmann in last month’s Futures?” The answer to both questions is yes, and we couldn’t be more excited. With an eye to the miniscule yields of the 2021 vintage, winemaker Sofie Bohrmann held back some of her stock of this wine to sell this year. So while bought all she’d let us buy last year, she’s offered it to us again, and we nearly tripped over ourselves signing up.

This wine makes a persuasive case as the most popular white Burgundy in our warehouse. Made from regional-level vines near Meursault and Puligny, the Bourgogne blanc 2020 is smooth, elegant, floral, and concentrated, with more than a passing resemblance to Meursault. The mouth is cool, impressively long, and vibrant. Bourgogne-blanc doesn’t often get better than this.

Ansonia Retail: $432
September Futures: $350/case

To order this wine, email tom@ansoniawines.com

 

Boursot Bourgogne Rouge 2021
Up the road in Chambolle-Musigny, where the Boursot family has been in the grape business since the 16th century, we find our second suggestion. The millennial Boursots have taken their family’s near-priceless terroir and begun to apply some seriously impressive cellar work. Jasper Morris MW writes that “the winemaking has been sharpened up by the current generation;” Neal Martin of Vinous finds the wines “superb” and writes of “a promising future.”

We were quite taken with Boursot’s 2021s – an extremely difficult vintage that proved a test for even seasoned winemakers. The Boursot brothers passed with flying colors, and their humble Bourgogne rouge 2021 is a perfect example. Raised entirely in steel, this is gorgeous, accessible, simply delicious red Burgundy. The nose shows cherry, plum and white flowers; the mouth is fresh and chalky with raspberry notes and low tannin. The dry, classy finish ties it up into a neat package. An exceptional value under $30.

Ansonia Retail: $432
September Futures: $350/case

To order this wine, email tom@ansoniawines.com

It’s hard to find new Burgundy producers these days. Demand remains high, the wines continue to get better, and a series of tiny vintages has meant many vignerons simply don’t need any new customers. But last year we came across a gem in the Maconnais: Sebastien Giroux is a terrific young winemaker farming just six hectares of vines in and around Pouilly-Fuissé.

Giroux’s disciplined organic winemaking results in extraordinary wines – William Kelley describes them as “supple, pure and charming.” We bought his wines enthusiastically last year, but apparently not enthusiastically enough – every bottle in the store had been sold by the spring.

This year we hope we’re a bit better stocked, and are excited to release his newest wine: Macon-Fuissé “Vers Chanes” 2021. If there’s a better $25 white Burgundy out there, we have yet to find it.

Sebastien took us to visit his Vers Chanes vines this spring – he explained that when the original Pouilly-Fuissé lines were drawn last century, the Vers Chanes plot had been forest. The since-cleared land, he believes, would rank today as Pouilly-Fuissé if the lines were redrawn. Lucky for us – today it remains a Macon-Fuissé, an overperforming terroir with a less famous name.

The wine itself is exquisite – unoaked Chardonnay with precise, linear focus. The nose calls to mind the golden lushness of Pouilly-Fuissé, but without the oak to obscure the gorgeous fruit. The mouth is lithe and precise, with chiseled minerality beneath the apple blossom and apricot notes.

Sub-$30 white Burgundy is on its way to becoming a thing of the past. Giroux’s Macon-Fuissé is proof the genre remains.

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Giroux Macon-Fuissé “Vers Chanes” 2021
bottle price: $25

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Muscadet is a crisp, precise, dry white wine that is the essence of freshness. It’s also abundant and inexpensive. Made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, the best examples are raised “sur lie” (on the lees) to add complexity.

“Serious Muscadet” was once a contradiction in terms, but today the genre has been expanded and improved. In recent years Muscadet has elevated several of its best terroirs to “Cru Communal” status, and extended their aging requirements. This new Muscadet is still crisp and lively, but it’s far more interesting than a generation ago.

Today’s wine comes from one of these leaders in the new wave of Muscadet. Martin-Luneau is a family domaine farming old vines on the plains south of Nantes. The 2018 Muscadet “Gorges” is a perfect antidote to late summer muggy weather. It’s pure and clean, showing melon, dried spring flowers, and lemon zest. The mouth is smooth and very dry, with notes of salt air, stones, and green apple skins. It’s refreshing and full of energy.

Oysters are the longstanding pairing of choice with Muscadet, and the thick savoriness in this wine is an exceptional foil for the fresh brininess of an oyster. Make sure to drink lots of water this week – but once you’re well hydrated, pour yourself a chilly glass of Muscadet.

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Martin-Luneau Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine
Sur Lie “Gorges” 2018
bottle price: $22

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Piedmont lies 350 miles southeast of Burgundy – six hours, one country, and a massive mountain range away. But the two regions share a common spirit. Their grapes (nebbiolo and pinot noir) are both thin-skinned varietals capable of extraordinary subtlety and depth. Both communicate terroir as few other grapes can, and while we’re far more familiar with Burgundy, we’re often taken with its kindred Italian cugino.

Founded in 1997 by Angelo Sassi, the small Sassi estate is today run by Davide Carniel, producing just a few hundred cases of Barbaresco annually. Their 2018 Barbaresco is terrific – pure Nebbiolo from an excellent, ripe vintage. The wine ages for two years in barrel, then six months in bottle before release.

This wine is beautifully balanced, with a nose of violets, red cherries, black pepper and anise. The mouth is compact and attractive, with delicate tannins and a refreshing salinity, amid sophisticated and polished wild cherry fruit. The tannins are sturdy but fine, with intricate detail and a lovely, welcoming finish. Serve this as the weather cools.

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Sassi San Cristoforo Barbaresco 2018
bottle price: $45

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The easiest way to describe Domaine les Goubert’s Gigondas “Cuvée Florence” is as a would-be Châteauneuf-du-Pape — same grapes, same ageworthiness, same lush, mouthfilling southern Rhône charm. But it’s fairer to think of it as top notch Gigondas in its own right. Gigondas has long been a source of value in the Southern Rhône Valley, commanding neither the name recognition nor pricetag of its neighbor Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Josh Raynolds of Vinous calls Goubert “one of the appellation’s most venerable domaines,” and today they’re firing on all cylinders. With thirtysomething daughter Florence at the helm, Goubert is turning in one stellar vintage after another.  Their 2019 Cuvée Florence is magnificnet — raynolds gave 94 points, finding “white pepper, incense, espresso,” and “smoke-laced blackberry compote, kirsch and mocha.” We think this wine has a long life ahead of it, but with a decanter and roast of lamb it’s a cozy, delicious match for the fall.

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Goubert Gigondas “Florence” 2019
bottle price: $52

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Chablis continues to be a haven of well-priced and excellent value Burgundy. After several scorching hot vintages in which the crisp, piercing soul of old-school Chablis seemed temporarily offstage, 2021 provided a return to tradition. A cooler, wetter, trickier growing season pushed harvest into late September, and the wines are effortlessly tasty in a vintage that was anything but.

Romain Collet dabbles with modern, oak-infused Chablis, and the wines are tasty if not exactly traditional. But our favorites are always the classics: plenty of stony freshness, low or no toast, and clean zippy finishes. Romain’s 2021s are exquisite – Burghound called them “entirely classic” – and lovers of old school Chablis will find much to like.

For his 2021 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, Romain uses an elevage of ⅓ barrels, ⅓ foudre, and ⅓ stainless tank, and it suits the vineyard very well. The vines here are between 55 and 60 years old, and they produce a nicely balanced wine, with good concentration and well-supported ripeness.

Jasper Morris found the bouquet “both stylish and typical, stones with lemon zest.” Burghound praised its “cool and airy aromas,” its “intense and attractively sleek” flavors, and its “lovely minerality.” The Burgundy pricing bubble still hasn’t floated to Chablis, and we think this is tremendously polished sub-$40 white Burgundy. Enjoy this all fall and into cocktail party season.

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Collet Chablis 1er “Vaillons” 2021
bottle price: $38

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The Boursot family has grown grapes in Chambolle-Musigny since 1515, but it’s almost easier to think of them as a newcomer. For most of the last five centuries they’ve sold their harvest to the local cooperative – then two generations ago they started domaine-bottling. The current winemakers – brothers Romaric and Remy Boursot – have begun to channel their family’s extraordinary terroir into truly impressive wine. Every vintage their wines gain polish, precision, and detail.

The Boursots’ terrific 2021s will be in next month’s September Futures, but today we’re highlighting their best wine – Chambolle 1er cru “Fuées” – from the excellent 2016 vintage. Fuées is an iconic vineyard on the north side of town, abutting the Grand Cru Bonnes Mares, and Boursot’s vines here average nearly 100 years old. The resulting wine is everything you’d guess from a top vintage and exceptional terroir.

Neal Martin of Vinous found Boursot’s 2016 Chambolle 1er Fuées “excellent,” writing “this is a superb Chambolle-Musigny with great tension and a long cassis-tinged finish.” Now seven years on from harvest, it’s just delicious. A splurge perhaps, but a mature, beautiful red Burgundy for a special dinner.

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Boursot Chambolle-Musigny 1er “Fuées” 2016
bottle price: $125

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Chateauneuf-du-Pape isn’t in fashion these days. As the world’s taste has shifted toward lightweight textures and micro-terroirs, Châteauneuf’s bold, appellation-wide cuvées aren’t exactly filling up the lists in the hipster wine bars of Lyon. So – it’s a good thing nobody’s ever accused us of being trendy…

To us, the rich, mouthfilling wines of the Rhône Valley’s iconic appellation can still be flat out delicious. (And they often don’t require a second mortgage like some Burgundies these days.) Christophe Mestre’s traditional, old-school Châteauneuf-du-Pape draws from old family plots across the appellation’s varied terroirs: galets roulés, sand, and clay-limestone.

Mestre’s 2019 Châteauneuf is humbly delicious – a blend of 50% grenache, 25% mourvèdre, 20% syrah, and 5% cinsault. The nose explodes with ripe strawberry fruit and a pleasant cool earthiness. The mouth is rich and ripe, with remarkable intensity and length for its price. Pour this at a tailgate this fall.

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Mestre Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019
bottle price: $35

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As we sit here squarely in the middle of tomato season, we find ourselves reaching for the small Italian corner of our cellar with some regularity. The natural acidity of summer tomatoes matches so well with our Nebbiolo and Sangiovese selections that sometimes it’s hard to drink anything else. We’re expanding our Piedmont offerings in next month’s September Futures issue, but in the mean time we’re well stocked on an old favorite Chianti Classico.

Rajat Parr calls Poggerino “some of the purest expressions of [Sangiovese] in Italy.” And indeed their wines seem to get better every year. Their current release 2020 Chianti Classico is beautiful. It’s fine grained and complex, with more nuance and finesse than usual. The wine bursts from the glass in dark floral notes that somehow also carry tremendous lift and elegance. Look for red cherries, roses, plums, licorice and cocoa. In the mouth it’s focused and sleek, with impressive intensity and perfectly coated tannin. The texture is fine grained and polished.

Antonio Galloni of Vinous gave 92+ points, finding it “soft, fruity, and open-knit,” calling it “supple and engaging” and “a fine choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years.” He concludes “the precision and pedigree here are just unreal.” Find some local tomatoes, do anything you like with them, and then pull out the Poggerino.

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Poggerino Chianti Classico 2020
bottle price: $25

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Much of the world’s syrah is rich, dark and opulent. But in the Northern Rhône Valley, syrah draws its strength from subtlety. Here delicate aromas of violets, perfume, smoke and stones combine with fresh mouthfeel and vibrant texture. Northern Rhône Syrah is a marriage of dark-fruited complexion with elegance and pep.

Our best values here are Denis Basset’s organic Crozes-Hermitages. They sport the texture of a fresh Beaujolais but with the dark fruits of Syrah. Basset’s “Etincelle” cuvée is the sort of wine you’d find in a wine bar in Paris – simple, refreshing, punchy and delicious. Pair this with a plate of charcuterie, or burgers from the grill.

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Saint Clair Crozes-Hermitage “Etincelle” 2020
bottle price: $22

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“Austrian wine” is almost synonymous with Grüner-Veltliner, and indeed 75% of the world’s Grüner is Austrian. The grape’s typical expression is uncomplicated and fresh, with low alcohol and blend of savory, herbal, and dry fruit notes. But at Salomon-Undhof, one of the country’s most historic and important domaines, the Salomon family expands what’s possible from the grape.

Their 2021 Grüner Veltliner “Wachtberg” cuvée shows an extraordinary level of depth and complexity.  It’s classified Erste Lage (similar to premier cru in Burgundy), and we think it easily earns its higher rank. The nose is floral and beautiful, with savory/saline elements melting into lush ripe fruit. The Wine Advocate’s reviewer found notes of “blood orange and grapefruit zest,” calling it “clear, round and elegant.” The texture is more concentrated and waxy than most Grüners, but with the grape’s signature vibrant freshness.

This will easily accompany foods with a bit of kick – think Thai cuisine or sushi with a healthy dose of wasabi. But it’s a delight on its own after a long summer day.

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Salomon-Undhof Grüner Veltliner “Wachtberg” 2021
bottle price: $32

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Vouvray is the king of the central Loire Valley. Made from pure Chenin Blanc, the wine is a chameleon, ranging from very sweet to bone dry and from sparkling to still. The most famous cuvées from top names will improve for decades, and are among the world’s longest lived wines.

But not all Vouvray is ageworthy or serious. Today we’re pleased to introduce a delicious, dry, bursting Vouvray at an affordable price from our brand new source here, Domaine de la Fontainerie. Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare estate since the 1990s, and it’s been in her family since the early 1700s.

Her Vouvray Sec 2020 is a late-summer delight. The nose is lush and beautiful with exotic fruits alongside notes of chalk, apple, quince and pear. The mouth is rich, smooth and delicious with a bursting apple attack and a crunchy, stony dry finish. Serve with crumbly goat cheese, garlic-ginger shrimp from the grill, or pre-season football.

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Fontainerie Vouvray Sec 2020
bottle price: $25

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Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated white Burgundies in our cellar. His style is one of restraint and precision. We think of them as “minimalist” white wines — what’s not there (oak, butter, heaviness) is as important as what is there.

Morey channels his historic family’s superb terroir in Chassagne-Montrachet – a town known for its lush, mouth filling whites — into sleek, ethereal, extraordinary wine. The 2021 vintage was a return to classically shaped wines in Burgundy, and the year fit Morey’s style perfectly. His 2021 Chassagne (the only wine to survive our Futures issue) is outstanding.

Jasper Morris found it “Quite floral for Chassagne… very stylish, very precise.” Exquisite wine from a master winemaker.

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Thomas Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 2021
bottle price: $75

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Sancerre is uncomplicated pleasure. A few top cuvées are meant to age and gain complexity, but most exist to provide simple, tasty, refreshment. Made from pure Sauvignon Blanc in soils laden with limestone and flint, Sancerre is usually unoaked and always crisp.

Our source here is Domaine de la Garenne, and their regular cuvée Sancerre is often our single best-selling white wine. Vinous’s reviewer called the 2022 “easygoing, clean, fresh” with an “appealing texture.” Look for notes of lime, grapefruit peel, stone, chalk and white flowers.

Don’t overthink this wine — simple, delicious, summertime white.

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Garenne Sancerre 2022
bottle price: $28

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