We find some of our favorite values in towns just off the beaten path. The neighbor villages of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet are the world’s best known sources for fine white wine. But just two miles to the west lies the often-overlooked town of Saint-Aubin, which turns out to be an exceptional source for value in white Burgundy.
Named for an 8th century Breton hermit monk, the medieval town of St-Emilion has long been a center for winemaking. Viticulture there dates to at least 275 AD, when Roman soldiers cleared the local forest and replaced it with vines.
Most things in Burgundy are old. Ancient walls and Roman paths wind across the landscape of vines; houses built a hundred years ago are considered new. And the people of the region have practiced viticulture here since long before it was called Burgundy.
In Burgundy, nearly all white wines are pure Chardonnay. The primary exception to the rule is Aligoté, a less prestigious varietal that nonetheless accounts for over 10% of white vines in Burgundy. It’s a traditional Burgundian grape that makes simple, refreshing wines meant for enjoying, not contemplating.
Côtes-du-Rhônes are a dime a dozen these days. From bistro chalkboards in Paris to Whole Foods to the drugstore checkout counter, it’s one of the most recognizable brands in the wine world. And as you might expect, not all Côtes-du-Rhônes are created equal. Among our very favorites is the Domaine Malmont’s version from Séguret. Malmont’s […]
Many of our winemakers are multi-generational. Some stretch back for centuries, others are more recent père et fils (or fille) operations. At their best they maintain a family’s hard won knowledge of its land.
Pouilly-Fuissé produces southern Burgundy’s finest wines. Grown an hour to the south of the Côte d’Or in the Maconnais, the wines of Pouilly-Fuissé show Chardonnay’s soft and opulent side. When carelessly made, Pouilly-Fuissé can be heavy and flat; but from a careful producer it can be a revelation.
Winemaking can be an unglamourous business. Behind the romance of the craft lies months of labor-intensive farming: flat tractor tires, vine maladies, hand pruning, bookkeeping, equipment cleaning, etc. Even for those in the trade, it can be easy to forget the work that goes into every bottle of wine. Perhaps no wine more acutely displays […]
French wines have long been the focus of Ansonia’s portfolio. Of the 45 or so winemakers we work with, about half are from Burgundy, and all but a few are French. This isn’t to say that these are the only places to find excellent wine, only that we’ve chosen depth over width in our portfolio.
Michel Gros appears on most lists of Burgundy’s finest winemakers. His style is smooth and elegant, with warm, enticing notes of toast, red berries, and a silky texture. Gros’s village level and premier cru wines can be truly extraordinary, but they require (and reward) investment and patience.
Some winter we’re having so far here on the East Coast. Warm hats and snow shovels are probably your most useful tools these days — but after the cleanup is done, we highly recommend a glass of something smooth and rich. So along with Wednesday’s Gigondas, here are four ideas to restock that “Wintry red” […]
As frigid air welcomes us into 2018, we find ourselves reaching for something rich and smooth to fill our wine glasses. In much of the world, a “rich” wine comes with a heavy dose of alcohol and little character. We prefer something with a bit more balance — dense and mouthfilling, but with carefully ripened […]
We first met Pascal Bardoux less than two years ago, but he is already a favorite among our readers. His small-batch Champagnes are distinctive, delicious, complex, and comparative bargains. Much of the mass-market Champagne distributed in the US between $75 and $100 a bottle; Bardoux’s small-batch Brut Traditionnel doesn’t even crack $50. It’s twice the wine at half the price.
Wine is only one expression of France’s terroir. In our travels around the country we love sampling the others — from Belon oysters and real Epoisses to pâté de campagne and fleur de sel. One of our favorite such products is crème de cassis, a blackcurrant liqueur originally from Burgundy.
In Burgundy, as in real estate, location is everything. Each town has its own character, and each produces a unique wine. The appellation lines drawn by monks centuries ago remain remarkably accurate today. But as you might expect, near the border between two appellations the characteristics often blur. It’s from one of these transitional zones […]