Posted on

Rugged Grace: Exquisite 5-Year-Old Côte Rôtie

Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time…

Posted on

A $25 Benchmark for Sangiovese

It is now about a quarter century since we first discovered Poggerino, and we can’t think of a producer with a better decades-long record of consistent, careful winemaking. Antonio Galloni, the founder of Vinous and a renowned critic of Italy’s best wines, calls Poggerino’s wines “some of the purest expressions of the Sangiovese grape in Italy.”

Posted on

Crozes-Hermitage Blanc: Start with Something Different. $29

Dennis Basset is beloved among our readers for his crisp, vibrant Syrahs from the Northern Rhône appellation of Crozes-Hermitage. His careful organic viticulture and light touch in the cellar produce terrific wines with precision and class, not to mention very reasonable price tags. His lone white wine, a Crozes Hermitage blanc, shows the same terrific detail and friendly character.

Posted on

Ocean Air in a Glass

Perched where the Loire river meets the windswept Atlantic coast, Muscadet has long been a source for a classic, dry white wine. Served by the carafe in the oyster bars of Paris and London for decades, it’s refreshing, abundant, and inexpensive — a perfect glass to wash down a plate of crustaceans. In the last […]

Posted on

Return to the Earth: Extraordinary New Unoaked White Burgundy

The Domaine Guillemot Michel has been a benchmark source for biodynamic white Burgundy from the Maconnais. For years they made just a single wine: an iconic Viré-Clessé from Quintaine. And the wine deserves every bit of its extensive praise. “Honeyed, concentrated wines that are imbued with remarkable concentration and energy, and they develop beautifully in the cellar,” writes William Kelley,…

Posted on

Coutier 2015 (96 Months Lees, 3g Dosage)

Several readers are already hooked on our newest Champagne producer, RH Coutier. Coutier has been a favorite of Vinous founder Antonio Galloni “for years;” he calls their wines “gorgeous… showing the natural richness of Ambonnay.” The Coutier style is open and accessible – the non-vintage “Traditionnel” is expressive, captivating wine at an exceptional price – today we’re introducing their finest…

Posted on

Poggerino Chianti Riserva 2019: Seven Years Into Its Prime

Poggerino is often cited as a reference point for Chianti Classico. Vinous writes of their Poggerino’s “remarkable purity and nuance,” and Rajat Parr calls their wines “excellent” and “some of the purest expressions of the grape in Italy.” Their organic vines from Radda-in-Chianti produced exquisitely balanced wines, full of depth and richness but also tension and lift.

Posted on

Cornas Reimagined: Silky, Floral, and Impossible to Spit

Everything in Cornas is small, but the Domaine Dumien-Serrette is tiny. Today fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms just 1.8 hectares (4 acres) of his family’s ancient vines. Simon Field MW of Berry Brothers writes of the Dumien-Serrette wines’ “granitic splendor” and “beguiling floral elegance which sets them apart.” Their old vines produce intense, concentrated Syrah, with extraordinary depth but…

Posted on

Silky, Pure, Delicious 2023 Red Burgundy

Last week we tasted with Pierre Gros, the new generation at Domaine Michel Gros. Michel is still around – we passed him directing some tractors in the Clos des Réas on the way to our tasting appointment – but Pierre is in charge now. There’s been little change to the winemaking at Gros (“if it ain’t broke…”) and in his…

Posted on

Six Year Old “Very Stylish Gevrey-Chambertin”

Philippe Cheron and his son Paul farm a portfolio of vineyards in Burgundy that would make even the most seasoned vigneron envious. Their Domaine du Couvent includes vines in every town from Nuits-St-Georges to Marsannay, including village, premier cru and grand cru plots. Their style is sleek and modern but with restrained oak, careful but firm extraction, and gorgeous density…

Posted on

Gorgeous Morey-St-Denis from a Rising Star

We’re in Burgundy this week visiting and tasting with winemakers. On Monday we spent a delightful morning and lunch with Léon Amiot, the young twentysomething winemaker at Domaine Amiot et fils in Morey-St-Denis. Léon is a real talent with a sky high ceiling – the Guide Hachette last year named him Burgundy’s “Winemaker of the Year.” His wines get better…