Thanksgiving 2021 Samplers

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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in the challenging 2024 vintage. We've long…
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in the challenging 2024 vintage. We've long been fans of his wines, and it was gratifying to see Vinous's Neal Martin heap praise on Gautier's thoughtful winemaking, citing their commendable purity and fine tannins. These were among the most successful red Burgundies we tasted from the vintage, and we think they are wines any red Burgundy collector would be proud to serve at the table.Grand Berge, at the southern end of Givry, often produces an accessible, young-drinking wine, and the 2024 is a real success. The nose is pretty and dark with notes of plum and smoke, while fine tannins and delicate red fruits mingle with earthy stones on the palate. Stylish, silky, and already approachable, this should be delicious from the start.
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in the challenging 2024 vintage. We've long…
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in the challenging 2024 vintage. We've long been fans of his wines, and it was gratifying to see Vinous's Neal Martin heap praise on Gautier's thoughtful winemaking, citing their commendable purity and fine tannins. These were among the most successful red Burgundies we tasted from the vintage, and we think they are wines any red Burgundy collector would be proud to serve at the table.The Desvignes monopole, with vines dating back to 1960, Clos du Vernoy produces deep, woodsy wines that reward patience. The 2024 shows sweet strawberry and cherry fruit over a beautiful stony core, with an extremely fine texture and mouthwatering freshness that carries across the rich fruit. This is Gautier's most ambitious, long-lived cuvée.
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in the challenging 2024 vintage. We've long…
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in the challenging 2024 vintage. We've long been fans of his wines, and it was gratifying to see Vinous's Neal Martin heap praise on Gautier's thoughtful winemaking, citing their commendable purity and fine tannins. These were among the most successful red Burgundies we tasted from the vintage, and we think they are wines any red Burgundy collector would be proud to serve at the table.Clos Charlé is Gautier's most refined cuvée, and the 2024 offers tremendous detail and balance. The nose is dark and gorgeous with notes of cassis and raspberry, while the palate is finely chiseled with perfectly judged fruit spread over a delicate tannic core. Elegant and beautifully balanced, this is a delightful expression of premier cru Givry.
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in the challenging 2024 vintage. We've long…
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Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent in the challenging 2024 vintage. We've long been fans of his wines, and it was gratifying to see Vinous's Neal Martin heap praise on Gautier's thoughtful winemaking, citing their commendable purity and fine tannins. These were among the most successful red Burgundies we tasted from the vintage, and we think they are wines any red Burgundy collector would be proud to serve at the table.Les Grandes Vignes was Neal Martin's highest-scoring wine from his inaugural visit to the domaine, and we agree that the 2024 is superb. The nose shows lemon curd and brioche with subtle stoniness behind, while the palate is long, tense, and beautifully concentrated. Easily matching the depth of a fine St-Aubin or village Chassagne, this is an outstanding white Burgundy.
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Chateau Larrieu-Terrefort's 2019 Margaux is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, and offers a…
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Chateau Larrieu-Terrefort's 2019 Margaux is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, and offers a particularly refined take on the terroir. The class of the vintage is apparent, and the 2019’s elegant, perfectly structured tannins are exquisite in this wine. The nose is sophisticated and pretty with notes of sweet spice and oak; the mouth is fine and long with a delicate balance and very long finish. This will benefit from some time in the bottle, but we expect it to be exceptional in a few years.
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One particular success in 2022 are the reds of Roger Belland, whose cuvées are…
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One particular success in 2022 are the reds of Roger Belland, whose cuvées are universally delicious, and always well priced. His Santenay 1er cru “Gravières” 2022 is a triumph – loads of dark cassis and violet fruit packed into a solid and inky core of fruit and minerals. And all wrapped up in a neat, classy, 13% alc. package.Burghound loved this wine, awarding it both “Outstanding” and “Top Value” designations. He found “fine volume and richness,” with “an opulent mid-palate mouthfeel,” calling the finish “firm and serious.” It’s juicy modern red Burgundy, but with perfect ripeness and an old-school texture.
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We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we…
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We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we see the same knack for making the most of the clay-limestone terroir that underlies Pouilly-Fuissé’s possibilities. Vessigaud is Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level), and the results in the glass are obvious: vibrant wines full of tension and bursting with life. We are not alone in our views — as William Kelley writes: “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”“Pierres à Canards,” is a small plot of 70 year-old vines in a higher section, and in 2023 the wine was impressively generous in the nose and round in the mouth. It was vinified and raised in barrels for 12 months, followed by 6 months en cuve. There’s a lot going on in this glass: great purity of fruit mingled with a mineral line, and much length on the palate. It’s a bit drier than the Vieilles Vignes – more savory, more saline, more serious – but no less tasty. Like the Vieilles Vignes, it should have a long life and prove a versatile wine to pair with a wide range of dishes.
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As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer…
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As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.Raised entirely in stainless steel, the Vaucoupin is particularly nice in 2023, offering a fine and delicate mouthfeel. The balance is particularly good, with freshness tied into a palate that nonetheless feels round and supple. In the nose, floral notes of acacia join the clean lemon fruit. Jasper Morris found “plenty of tension on the palate, discreet in the middle, a little richer at the finish. . . . Classy yet of medium body.” This is prototypical Chablis, and it wants for nothing.
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