Thanksgiving 2021 Samplers

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As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer…
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As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.The Chablis premier cru “Fourneaux” 2023 is from a right-bank vineyard with more clay in the soils. It is also raised entirely in stainless steel, but the additional clay makes the wine more easily accessible, with a palate of rounder mouthfeel before a mineral finish with refreshing salinity. Jasper Morris awarded four stars, calling it “understated yet fine.”
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Morey’s white Burgundies are quietly extraordinary. They’re concentrated but perfectly channeled, long but refined…
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Morey’s white Burgundies are quietly extraordinary. They’re concentrated but perfectly channeled, long but refined – immaculate fruit and stones join the merest whisper of oak. Morey makes terrific wine at every level, but today we’re focused on his simplest: Bourgogne blanc.This cuvée shows all of the meticulous concentration of all of Morey’s wines, but without the site-specific terroir shining through. It’s not about the chiseled stoniness of Puligny, or the shimmering golden energy of Chassagne; this is about winemaker style. And boy, what a style it is.Morey’s Bourgogne blanc usually evaporates in Futures, but this year we’ve got a bit extra. Open last night alongside a roast chicken and fall weather, this was simply delicious. The nose shows lime zest and white flowers, the mouth shows yellow plum and earth. Burghound called this “lovely,” and we think you will too.
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The Domaine Guillemot-Michel from the hamlet of Quintaine in the Viré-Clessé appellation has been…
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The Domaine Guillemot-Michel from the hamlet of Quintaine in the Viré-Clessé appellation has been the project of Pierette and Marc Guillemot-Michel since the 1980’s, now joined by their daughter Sophie and their son-in-law Gautier Roussille. These are honeyed, concentrated wines imbued with remarkable concentration and energy, and they develop beautifully in the cellar.Une Bulle 2022 was first created to celebrate the marriage of Sophie and Gautier, and is made by the Methode Ancestrale. Ripe grapes are harvested and fermentation is begun in vats, then before all the sugar is consumed the wines are bottled and fermentation continues there, producing the gas that provides the mousse. After 15-24 months on the lees, the wine is disgorged and corked, with no addition of exogenous sugar. The result is a delicious sparkling wine with plenty of complexity, tiny bubbles and a delightful mouthfeel, with freshness and tension that matches well with food.
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Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to…
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Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to beginner’s luck. His father Michel is never far away with ready counsel and advice, but this is Pierre’s ship now, and he’s steering it beautifully. Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and his wines are clean and pure – they sport the same polish as his fathers’ with perhaps a bit more concentration of fruit and slightly longer finishes.Fontaine-St-Martin is the domaine’s monopole in the Hautes-Côtes. Together with the Au Vallon parcel and the broader Hautes-Côtes blend, it represents the higher elevation vineyards above the famous slope of the Côte d’Or.
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Poggerino, in Radda in Chianti, is one of the reference-point estates for pure, terroir-driven…
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Poggerino, in Radda in Chianti, is one of the reference-point estates for pure, terroir-driven Sangiovese. Under Piero Lanza, the domaine has built a decades-long reputation for meticulous vineyard work and restrained, traditional winemaking, producing wines that emphasize clarity, balance, and site expression. Antonio Galloni has called them “some of the purest expressions of the Sangiovese grape in Italy.”Finally, the 2022 Chianti Classico Riserva “Bugialla” is another resounding success, which Galloni called “gorgeous” and “superb.” He found that “black cherry, new leather, spice, menthol and licorice fill out the layers effortlessly.” While it is a powerful wine with the structure to stand up to the robust flavors of game or lamb, it also shows plenty of finesse.
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The soils of this region are the same Kimmeridgian mixture as nearby Chablis —…
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The soils of this region are the same Kimmeridgian mixture as nearby Chablis — a blend of chalk, limestone, and clay, rather than the chalk-limestone of the rest of Champagne. The addition of clay gives the wines a broader mouthfeel than those from northern Champagne, and we found all four Robin wines delightfully rich on the palate.Cuvée Topaze is blanc de blancs (100% chardonnay): refined, elegant, and subtle; the nose is fresh and clean with notes of lemon, chalk, and green apple. The mouth beautifully blends citrus and earth — it calls to mind a white Burgundy with bubbles.
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The 2019 vintage produced wines that were almost universally successful. The tannins are compact…
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The 2019 vintage produced wines that were almost universally successful. The tannins are compact and delicious, with an unusual succulence that makes them delightful even young. The fruits are both perfectly ripe and beautifully balanced, indicating a long life ahead.Ravaut’s 2019 Côte de Nuits-Villages is among our most popular everyday red Burgundies. Today we’re suggesting its more sophisticated and classier cousin: the Ladoix 1er cru “Bois Roussot.” It’s bursting with strawberries and briary, woodsy berries in the nose; the mouth is smooth and fine-grained, with excellent density and a clean, modern finish.
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The Chastan family has been making wine in the same style for two generations…
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The Chastan family has been making wine in the same style for two generations. They were among the earliest in the region to farm organically (they were certified in 1980!), and their winemaking is simple and straightforward.  Vinification for all the wines is cement vats, followed by an elevage in either vats or neutral oak foudres.  The wines are neither fined nor filtered.The Clos du Joncuas Gigondas 2020 is an easy, early-drinking vintage. It is silky smooth and rich, with dense, sweet fruit and notes of allspice. Though velvety, there is good underlying structure and a bit of earthiness in the finish. A dose of salinity balances the lush fruit, making this a delightful young wine we think will drink well for several years.
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