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 | Vincent Boyer is among the small group of vignerons who watched the region warming… More (+) Vincent Boyer is among the small group of vignerons who watched the region warming and recognized its potential to elevate the quality of Aligoté, Chardonnay’s poor relation. Les Aligoteurs, as they are known, have brought Aligoté light years beyond its skinny, acidic past. Vincent raises his Aligoté in older versions of the same barrels he uses for his famous wines from Meursault and Puligny, which gives the wine a roundness and weight that we wouldn’t have thought possible from this modest grape. Burghound praised the 2021’s “exceptionally fresh aromas includ[ing] those of lemon rind, green apple and spice,” and its “very fine persistence on the clean and agreeably dry finish.” Less (-) | |
 | Sisters Dany and Carole Chastan are third generation vigneronnes practicing old-school winemaking -- whole… More (+) Sisters Dany and Carole Chastan are third generation vigneronnes practicing old-school winemaking -- whole clusters, limited sulfur, all wild yeasts. They use no new oak, and neither fine nor filter. Their wines are juicy and deep and very expressive, with gorgeous fruit. Writer Jon Bonné has named them a benchmark producer of the region, “essential defenders of grenache’s good name.”Their just-arrived 2022 Vacqueyras is delicious, and a terrific value. From an appellation just south of Gigondas, this is nearly all Grenache (85%). The nose is extraordinary, bursting with dark wild strawberry fruit, plums, lavender, bay leaf and earth – a splash of Mourvedre adds complexity and backbone. It’s a crowd-pleasing everyday red that will offer immediate pleasure. Less (-) | |
 | Paget’s Chinon blanc 2021 is pure Chenin blanc, this one raised in large barrels… More (+) Paget’s Chinon blanc 2021 is pure Chenin blanc, this one raised in large barrels (none new). The oak is deftly handled, and you might not even notice it if you didn’t know what to look for – it adds a bit of depth and white pepper to the clean orchard fruit. It’s deeper in the nose than the most dry Chenin Blanc – think gardenia and rose – but with the same pretty pear fruit.The 2021 is drier than last year’s, and we think more sophisticated and impressive. There’s a savory grape-skin minerality to the wine that gives a mouthwatering texture reminiscent of Chablis. It’s a classy wine that should pair well with a range of springtime foods – a lobster roll, crab cakes, or raclette grilled cheese. Less (-) | |
 | The Godon-Reverdys are from a storied Sancerre family that has produced wine in Sancerre… More (+) The Godon-Reverdys are from a storied Sancerre family that has produced wine in Sancerre for generations. They’re certified organic, and in fact use many biodynamic treatments they find useful, as well as a team of sheep to keep grasses down and soil fertilized. Their wines are classic Sancerre, and among the most popular in the store.Alliance ‘24 offers beautiful sauvignon fruit with aromatic overlays of grapefruit and some orchard fruit, perhaps white peach. Alliance is generous for a Sancerre, but in the mouth there’s a spine of freshness that keeps the wine bright enough through the palate. It is classic and delicious. Less (-) | |
 | Denis Basset produces delicious all-Syrah red wine in Crozes-Hermitage, the modest close relation of… More (+) Denis Basset produces delicious all-Syrah red wine in Crozes-Hermitage, the modest close relation of the superstar appellations of Hermitage, Côte Rôtie and Cornas. Happily, the pricing is decidedly also modest, and over a decade or so Domaine Saint Clair has developed a loyal following among friends of Ansonia Wines. As you have heard us say before, the greatest expression of any grape comes at the northern end of its range, which explains the Northern Rhône where Syrah makes superb reds without an assist from Grenache or other red grapes from farther South.Saint Clair’s old vine cuvée is called “Fleur Enchantée.” It is more serious and ageworthy than Étincelle and raised entirely in oak barrels. The 2023 Fleur Enchantée is delicious, with plenty of density and concentration. There’s a touch of menthol mingling with the fruit, and at 13% alcohol the balance of the wine is perfect. You can start sampling this right away, but over the next year or so it will add some velvet in the mouth and complexity in the nose. Less (-) | |
 | Basset’s white Crozes-Hermitage “Un Matin” has an enthusiastic following, not only among Ansonia clients but among… More (+) Basset’s white Crozes-Hermitage “Un Matin” has an enthusiastic following, not only among Ansonia clients but among restaurants in his region. In fact we had to wait a few years before we were allocated any, so popular is the wine among local restaurateurs. It is easy to see why: “Un Matin” is an aromatic and expressive blend of Marsanne and Roussane that recalls Condrieu in its unctuous texture and exuberant nose. To maintain freshness, Denis planted additional Marsanne about five years ago, and those grapes, raised in stainless steel, are now finding their way into the wine. The Roussanne gets about seven months of aging in oak barrels, which provides the roundness and gras (“fat”) that makes the wine so appealing as an aperitif. The final blend is a delicious combination of 55% Marsanne and 45% Roussanne. Less (-) | |
 | The Loire Valley continues to be one of the most exciting corners of winemaking… More (+) The Loire Valley continues to be one of the most exciting corners of winemaking in France, where organic viticulture, balanced wines, and affordable prices are the rule rather than the exception. Our source for these reds is the Domaine des Sanzay, a fifth generation organic domaine in Saumur-Champigny in the central Loire. Their unblended Cabernet Franc wines have become highly popular in our warehouse, opening tasters’ eyes to a new expression of the grape.The Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes spends a year in big barrels and the current release is the 2023. It’s darker and more serious than the regular cuvée, with the old vines bringing concentration and depth of flavor. The nose is dried roses and wild cherries; the mouth is dark and rugged with earthy notes and a delicious saline finish. The old-vine cuvée lasts far longer on the palate, with more supporting tannin. Less (-) |