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 | Poggerino, in Radda in Chianti, is one of the reference-point estates for pure, terroir-driven… More (+) Poggerino, in Radda in Chianti, is one of the reference-point estates for pure, terroir-driven Sangiovese. Under Piero Lanza, the domaine has built a decades-long reputation for meticulous vineyard work and restrained, traditional winemaking, producing wines that emphasize clarity, balance, and site expression. Antonio Galloni has called them “some of the purest expressions of the Sangiovese grape in Italy.”The backbone of Poggerino’s production has always been the Chianti Classico — the “Annata” or “vintage” wine that is released two years after the harvest. The Annata is always lithe and elegant, pairing well with a broad range of dishes. This year’s Annata is the 2023 vintage. As usual, Galloni is full of praise, finding that “dark red cherry, leather, lavender, spice and dried herbs all meld together in an open-knit, mid-weight wine that has so much to offer.” He went on to call it “pliant and inviting” and “an absolute delight.” Less (-) | |
 | Sébastien Giroux is a first-rate winemaker with vines across the hills surrounding Fuissé, including… More (+) Sébastien Giroux is a first-rate winemaker with vines across the hills surrounding Fuissé, including Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché, and Mâcon-Fuissé. He refuses to be rushed into bottling, believing each wine should remain in élevage until it is truly ready. The result is a collection of remarkably expressive white Burgundies that consistently deliver far more character and complexity than their appellations might suggest.Raised entirely in tank, the 2024 Les Pelées shows the freshness and energy of the vintage with good roundness in the mouth and longer persistence than one might expect from a regional wine. Sébastien calls it his "angular Mâcon," and there is indeed a dose of Chablisienne style here, making it an excellent choice for those who prefer tension and zip in their white Burgundy. Less (-) | |
| | Sébastien Giroux is a first-rate winemaker with vines across the hills surrounding Fuissé, including… More (+) Sébastien Giroux is a first-rate winemaker with vines across the hills surrounding Fuissé, including Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché, and Mâcon-Fuissé. He refuses to be rushed into bottling, believing each wine should remain in élevage until it is truly ready. The result is a collection of remarkably expressive white Burgundies that consistently deliver far more character and complexity than their appellations might suggest.Adjacent to Pouilly-Fuissé on the upper slope, Vers Chanes faces east and northeast, giving the wine a lively character and pleasant mineral line. The 2023 is round and mouthfilling, with more body than Les Pelées and a style that is classically Mâconnais. Its balance of freshness and flesh makes it an easy-drinking yet distinctive white Burgundy. Less (-) | |
 | The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge for nine generations. Today they raise… More (+) The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge for nine generations. Today they raise their fruits organically and biodynamically, and their crèmes are the cleanest, purest, most intense extraction of fruit we’ve ever seen. We’ll admit some skepticism as they explained that they play baroque music in their cave so the auditory vibrations can help the extraction — but one taste of these cremes and you won’t care what they do to make it.The French most often use these crèmes for a kir or kir royale — a glass of aligoté or sparkling wine with a splash of crème. It’s a refreshing, delightful cocktail that’s distinct, elegant, and festive. Less (-) | |
 | Sanzay also makes more serious reds, with real aging potential and sophistication. Our choice… More (+) Sanzay also makes more serious reds, with real aging potential and sophistication. Our choice in the 2018 vintage is Saumur-Champigny “Les Dares,” from 55 year-old vines and raised in small oak barrels for 15 months. In this wine a pleasant dose of oak joins the fruit. It’s very attractive in the mouth: round in the opening but with plenty of supporting structure and very nice length. Fine grained tannins support the notes of cranberry, cassis and silky minerality. Less (-) | |
 | Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare estate since the 1990s, and it’s… More (+) Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare estate since the 1990s, and it’s been in her family since the early 1700s.With 30 grams of residual sugar and excellent minerality, this Demi-Sec is lightly sweet – picture the sweetness in a bowl of ripe berries rather than a slice of cake. The nose is tropical and wonderful, showing quince, pear, and cooked apples. The mouth is smooth, elegant and quite long, with a beautiful velvety texture and almost a hint of tannin. This cuvée probably isn’t sweet enough for dessert – we’d serve it with a spicy Asian dish, sushi with a healthy dose of wasabi, or fish tacos alongside salsa with some authority. Less (-) | |
 | If you like your Loire reds more serious and ageworthy, here’s an exciting find… More (+) If you like your Loire reds more serious and ageworthy, here’s an exciting find. The nose shows smoke and anise, which have both started to integrate beautifully into the fruit; and we expect the trend to continue. The 50+ year old vines contribute impressive richness, which the Sanzay Family have handled masterfully -- despite all of the inky, old-vine material, the shape of the wine remains fine and precise (even angular). This is Cabernet Franc at its most Burgundian -- intense, earthy fruit that somehow retains its lift and sophistication. We expect this to improve for another 3-4 years, and wouldn’t be surprised it it was still impressive in a decade. Lightweight, carefree Cabernet Franc is useful and delicious, but here’s ample proof the grape can perform on a higher level. Less (-) | |
| | Our favorite source for these delicious reds is the Domaine des Sanzay, an organic… More (+) Our favorite source for these delicious reds is the Domaine des Sanzay, an organic fixture of Saumur-Champginy in the central Loire. Their unblended Cabernet Franc wines have become highly popular in our warehouse, with their simple Saumur red and old-vine cuvée opening tasters’ eyes to a new expression of the grape.This year it was Sanzay’s parcellaire cuvée “Les Dares” that grabbed our attention. Drawn from a single plot of 65+ year old cabernet franc, this is an impressive wine. The nose is very fine and detailed, with a distinct note of honeysuckle over the red apple fruits and violet petals. The mouth is fine grained and concentrated with perfectly balanced tannin and a clean, dry finish. Decant for a half hour and serve with stews or duck or steak. Less (-) |