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For many years we have known the Domaine Gautheron as a low profile address…
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For many years we have known the Domaine Gautheron as a low profile address offering consistently excellent wines in a style that is truly Chablisien. Jasper Morris MW calls Cyril Gautheron “a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style.” The 2024 vintage provides a ringing affirmation of this praise: steely, dry wines full of tension and elegance, and a beautiful showcase for Cyril’s skills and the subtleties of Chablis terroir.Gautheron’s Chablis “Cuvée Emeraude” offers bone-dry clarity and precision, with pure lemon fruit that stretches out across the palate and finishes very clean. Jasper Morris called it “a bundle of white stone energy,” praising its “fresh and dynamic approach,” its “remarkably long finish,” and its “distinguished nose.” He awarded it five stars and predicted a rating of 90 to 93 points.
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For many years we have known the Domaine Gautheron as a low profile address…
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For many years we have known the Domaine Gautheron as a low profile address offering consistently excellent wines in a style that is truly Chablisien. Jasper Morris MW calls Cyril Gautheron “a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style.” The 2024 vintage provides a ringing affirmation of this praise: steely, dry wines full of tension and elegance, and a beautiful showcase for Cyril’s skills and the subtleties of Chablis terroir.The vines here are 50 to 70 years old, delivering full body and extra concentration. The elevage is a mix of tank and barrels, providing additional roundness and a gentle hint of oak. Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2024 will be wonderfully versatile: pleasant in a glass by itself, and pairing well with any dish calling for white wine. Jasper Morris predicted a rating of 90 to 92 points.
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Charles Frey (formerly Mersiol) is a terrific Demeter-certified biodynamic source in Alsace. The family…
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Charles Frey (formerly Mersiol) is a terrific Demeter-certified biodynamic source in Alsace. The family has made wine in Dambach-la-Ville since 1709, and today makes excellent wines of many colors. The Frey Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardive (late harvest) 2017 offers a beautiful floral bouquet of apricot, peach, and mandarin orange.In the mouth it is sweet, but the sugar levels are on the order of fifty grams — about half the level of many other dessert wines. What is more, the underlying acidity prevents any cloying sweetness. Get this out at the end of a fine meal and it will surprise and delight your guests.
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Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and careful winemaker making superb wines of understatement and…
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Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and careful winemaker making superb wines of understatement and precision. If some Maconnais whites can verge into overripeness in warm years, Sebastien’s are entirely devoid of heaviness. His careful winemaking – low sulfur, minimal oak, extremely long elevage – results in minimalist wines of precision and grace. Think Thomas Morey an hour south.This is always among our favorite bottlings here, and this year it simply shines. The extra ripeness of the vintage is evident, but as always comes with Sebastien’s signature restraint and finesse. The nose is superb, with spice, fruit, and spring flowers all in perfect harmony. The mouth is perfectly integrated with notes of honeysuckle and brioche, and a whisper of oak amid a rich palate. 
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The Boyers use an extended two-year elevage in oak barrels and then concrete eggs…
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The Boyers use an extended two-year elevage in oak barrels and then concrete eggs, and the resulting wines are sleek and full, steering well clear of the traps of overoaking and heaviness. Boyer’s Bourgogne Côte d’Or comes from vines near his hometown of Meursault, and even this humble cuvée shows a glimmer of that golden Meursault character.The resulting wine is the best value Bourgogne blanc in our cellar – and with this year’s pricing it might be the best value too. Burghound found the nose “elegant” and “exuberantly fresh,” with “delicious and equally vibrant flavors” in the mouth. The nose opens with citrus and white flowers, and the mouth is full of concentrated fruit and tension. An exceptionally successful white Burgundy, and at the price, an excellent value.
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Lots of Chateauneuf-du-Pape is built for the long haul, and somewhat inaccessible young –…
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Lots of Chateauneuf-du-Pape is built for the long haul, and somewhat inaccessible young – not Mestre’s. It’s middleweight and delicious with gorgeous young fruit and friendly tannins. It ages for 5-8 years with ease, but drinks well from the moment it is in the bottle. The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is terrific – 50% grenache, 25% mourvèdre, 20% syrah, and 5% cinsault. The nose is focused and beautiful, with lovely deep sappy fruit bursting from the glass.Grenache makes up only half this wine, but it’s the star of the show this year – luxurious red fruit of wild cherries, raspberries and hints of provencal thyme combine to make an explosive and seductive palate.
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Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for…
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Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for success in the insular world of Burgundian vignerons where most inherit vines, and people even from the Maconnais (an hour south) are considered out of towners. And yet she’s cracked into the elite world of Côte d’Or winemaking. She’s a real winemaking talent, of course, but we’re betting her charming smile and disarmingly friendly demeanor go a long way. Her style is clear and juicy – the wines are packed with flavor, limited oak, and flat-out delicious textures.Bohrmann’s Bourgogne Côte d’Or Blanc “Les Belles Goutes” is a core presence in many of our customer’s cellars, priced for regular drinking but showing the fine quality of Chardonnay from the Côte d’Or. The vines are from Meursault, and some of the storied village’s opulence seems to find its way into the glass. With alcohol at 13% in the 2023 vintage, the wine is generous, and its rich lemon curd fruit benefits from just the right amount of oak. It’s an excellent house Bourgogne blanc, and one that matches with everything and nothing.
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The Domaine Collet is run these days by Romain Collet, the energetic and talented…
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The Domaine Collet is run these days by Romain Collet, the energetic and talented grandson of Jean Collet, the founder. He experiments with all of today’s means of elevage, so a visitor to the cellars now walks past not only stainless steel tanks and large oak foudres, but also cement eggs, clay amphoras, and barrels of all sizes, from traditional Burgundian to demi-muids holding 400 or 500 liters. Romain skillfully matches the new and old techniques with the various terroirs, crafting delicious and varied wines with much character.At the village level this year, we've got Romain's new cuvée, from terroir that lies alongside the premier crus on the slope collectively known as “Vaillons.” Chablis "Valvan" is  eminently drinkable, plentifully fresh and expressive.  Its 60 year old vines provide plenty of stuffing, but dry and lively as a Chablis should be. Jasper Morris praised its “attractively chiselled white fruit, fresh lemons and a crunchy finish.” The village-level designation contributes an attractive price.
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