Gros Hautes-Côtes “Fontaine-St-Martin” blanc 22

Pierre Gros (Michel’s son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.

Gros’s only white wine comes from the Hautes Côte’s Fontaine St. Martin, and shows that a skilled maker of red Burgundy can also show a deft touch with white. Neal Martin found “good weight and energy” and a “fresh nose of yellow fruit, hints of nectarine, and chai tea.” Under $50, it offers excellent value for a barrel-raised Burgundy.