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As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer…
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As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better. Chablis “Cuvée Emeraude” 2023 is purely in the classic style: entirely vat-raised, steely, and bursting with energy — the sort of wine that inspired the classic pairing of Chablis with oysters. Its fruit is pure, clean lemon and lime. The Kimmeridgian limestone soils in which the 30-40 year old vines grow deliver a mineral line to complement the fruit and add a finish of mouth watering salinity.
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As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer…
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As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better. Gautheron’s Chablis “Vieilles Vignes” 2023 offers smoother edges. It comes from old vines, and it’s raised two-thirds in stainless steel and one-third in barrels. This wine is made to be slightly richer and rounder than their Emeraude cuvée, with a discreet hint of oak that rounds out the minerality without obscuring it. It succeeds beautifully, delivering an elegant wine that also has good supporting acidity.
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Sébastien Dupré and Guillaume Goujon’s superb cuvées of Beaujolais from the 2022 vintage are…
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Sébastien Dupré and Guillaume Goujon’s superb cuvées of Beaujolais from the 2022 vintage are like no other Beaujolais you have tasted, unless you were lucky enough to taste the same wines from 2020.  They offer a beautiful combination of density, complexity and persistence that more resembles the reds of the Côte d’Or more than any other wines made from Gamay. The growing season 2022 was exceptionally hot and dry, but their vines did not suffer excessive heat stress, and they were able to bring in grapes with full phenolic ripeness but potential alcohol in the range of only 12.5% to 13%. Cuvée 6-3-1 is a blend of their three plots, readily drinkable but deceptively sophisticated. We loved its expressive nose of dark, ripe fruit – violets and cassis, with a croquant (crackling) texture. Kenna Wells, the Wine Advocate’s reviewer, found “a packed palate with notes of stewed cherries complemented by spice, white pepper, and charred wood.” James Suckling praised its “striking elegance” and “fine tannins,” and we agree with the critics that the wine is far more than a summer sipper. It will grace your table all year round.
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Beaujolais blanc is offered by some but not all winemakers in the region. Dupré-Goujon…
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Beaujolais blanc is offered by some but not all winemakers in the region. Dupré-Goujon bought some Chardonnay vines in 2019, and in the last few years has made a beaujolais blanc that is strikingly good. Raised half in tank and half in wood, the Clos des Muriers 2023 has beautiful balance: just a touch of oak, good freshness and an attractive weight. Suckling’s reviewer effuses: “Not only is this the first great chardonnay from Beaujolais we’ve encountered, but it is also an incredibly joyful expression of the grape, brimming with stone-fruit, lemon-curd and white-flower aromas. The super-elegant, medium-bodied palate has breathtaking purity and precision. Great energy in the very long, chalky finish.”  
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The Boursot estate has been handed down over 500 years in the tiny town…
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The Boursot estate has been handed down over 500 years in the tiny town of Chambolle-Musigny. The current winemakers, brothers Romaric and Romuald, have transformed the humble property into an exciting source for well-priced Burgundies. Bill Nanson (Burgundy Report) calls them “delicious, consistently excellent;” Steen Öhman (Winehog) finds them “forward, quite vivid…truly exciting.”   We’ve never offered Boursot’s white before, but this year’s was too good to pass up. From vines in Chambolle near the RN-74, this is beautiful everyday white Burgundy. The oak treatment is extremely light and well integrated, and the wine is mostly a fruit-and-stone play. The nose shows clean lemon fruit with a hint of floral perfume and dry grape skin. The mouth is pretty, fresh, middleweight and pretty. A perfect aperitif white Burgundy.
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Ravaut's wines used to require extended maceration to draw color and flavor from grapes…
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Ravaut's wines used to require extended maceration to draw color and flavor from grapes, but now the crop arrives at harvest with enough concentration to ferment more gently. The resulting wines are smoother, beautifully balanced, and simply delicious young. William Kelly of the Wine Advocate calls them “hearty, characterful wines,” with “plenty to admire.” The Ravaut humble Bourgogne Côte d’Or Rouge is gorgeous this year, a useful entry-level wine that provides excellent value. The nose is dark and sappy with notes of plum and wild cherries. The mouth is inky and smooth, and the tannins are perfectly integrated. This will require no patience, and you won’t be able to keep your hands off it anyway. A perfect, easygoing weeknight red Burgundy.
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Dany and Carol Chastan make delicious wines in Gigondas, a near neighbor and vinous…
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Dany and Carol Chastan make delicious wines in Gigondas, a near neighbor and vinous cousin of Chateauneuf du Pape.  Their winemaking has always been organic, with biodynamic elements, and their effort is always to faithfully render the wine that the vintage has produced. Beard Award winning author Jon Bonné singled them out for praise in his recent book “The New French Wine,” naming them a benchmark producer of the region and “essential defenders of grenache’s good name.” The 2023 shows characteristic wild strawberries dominate the aromatic profile, and the palate is round and well balanced, with a bit of salinity joining the delightful ripe fruit. There is very good length in the mouth.
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Nicolas Paget continues to produce excellent, dry, delicious Chenin Blanc from his organically farmed…
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Nicolas Paget continues to produce excellent, dry, delicious Chenin Blanc from his organically farmed vineyard in the central Loire Valley. We visited this spring, and were reminded of just how lush this region is, deserving of its moniker “Le Jardin de France.” Paget’s wines are similarly lush – round and rich with excellent acidity and beautiful depth. Nicolas’s Chinon Blanc “Passeur du Terroir” from 2022. The warm vintage provided ample ripeness, and this wine is round, luxurious and opulent. Paget raised it in large 500L barrels, and there’s a faint note of spice alongside the yellow pear fruit. A pleasant savory grape-skin minerality joins the lush fruit to give mouthwatering texture almost reminiscent of Chablis. Fans of rich white Burgundy – think Meursault or Pouilly-Fuissé – will enjoy the depth and friendly texture here. Pair this with autumn foods – a lobster bisque, a bouillabaisse, a plate of raclette.
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Thanksgiving Whites
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Thanksgiving Reds
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Thanksgiving Bubbles
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