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Fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms a miniscule 1.8 hectares (4 acres) in Cornas…
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Fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms a miniscule 1.8 hectares (4 acres) in Cornas. Simon Field MW of Berry Brothers writes of the Dumien-Serrette wines’ “granitic splendor” and “beguiling floral elegance which sets them apart.” Their old vines produce intense, teeth-staining Syrah, with extraordinary depth but remarkable freshness. Their primary cuvée is called “Patou,” made from 80+ year old syrah vines – and that’s their “young vine” bottling. The 2022 is terrific, a symphony of spice and deep black fruit. At 13% alcohol it’s sunny and ripe without an ounce of heaviness, the calling card of top Northern Rhône reds. The nose is deep and perfumed with notes of dark cherry, spices, cocoa and cured meats. The mouth is dark and rich but with sturdy tannin and a pleasant savory element.
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Wine writer Rajat Parr describes St. Aubin as the “insider’s white Burgundy.” Wedged in…
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Wine writer Rajat Parr describes St. Aubin as the “insider’s white Burgundy.” Wedged in a valley between Chassagne and Puligny, this town produces white Burgundy with hints of Montrachet’s golden richness, but a less stratospheric price tag. St-Aubin has become rarer and pricier like everything else in Burgundy, but it’s still far more affordable than its famous neighbors. At the western edge of the St. Aubin appellation lies a plot named “Murgers des Dents de Chiens.” Perched just up the hill from Montrachet itself, this St. Aubin 1er cru is a remarkable value. It’s everything that white Burgundy should be – rich, refreshing, complex, and elegant.
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We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we…
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We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we see the same knack for making the most of the clay-limestone terroir that underlies Pouilly-Fuissé’s possibilities. Vessigaud is Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level), and the results in the glass are obvious: vibrant wines full of tension and bursting with life. We are not alone in our views — as William Kelley writes: “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.” Pouilly-Fuissé 1er cru “Les Reisses” is from a marl and limestone plot called “Vers Pouilly,” also in the village of Fuissé. The vines here are between 60 and 80 years old — about twice as old as those in “Vignes Blanches.” Such vines make a lot of millerandage (grapes of various sizes that have a high skin-to-juice ratio), which produces concentrated wine of greater power and length. Elevage here is leisurely, with 12 months in 5 year old demi-muids (600L barrels) followed by six months in stainless steel. Persistence on the palate is particularly noteworthy in “Les Reisses” 2023, and its prominent mineral line carries through to the end. This is a focused and precise wine, more reminiscent of a Puligny-Montrachet than a Chassagne-Montrachet.
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Bardoux’s Brut Traditionnel is his non-vintage cuvée, and an excellent entree to the collection…
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Bardoux’s Brut Traditionnel is his non-vintage cuvée, and an excellent entree to the collection. A blend of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, this wine has the complexity and depth to match the finest bottles from Burgundy or Bordeaux. This year’s Traditionnel contains wine mostly from 2012, and we found it even better than last year’s. The nose shows plum and lemon and buttered biscuits; the mouth is dry, elegant, and smooth, with notes of apple and toast.
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The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru “Clos Pitois” rouge is particularly nice this year. It offers…
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The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru “Clos Pitois” rouge is particularly nice this year. It offers a toastier nose, with fruit that’s a bit more focused and less prominent than the 2017 Santenay Beauregard rouge. Think black currants vs. dark cherries. A pleasant minerality mingles with the fruit. We’d likely wait six months or so before trying a bottle, but we expect the wine to be a classic Côte de Beaune red before long.
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The 2018 vintage delivered the warmest summer in decades, and the resulting wines are…
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The 2018 vintage delivered the warmest summer in decades, and the resulting wines are big, muscly, ripe and full-bodied, Mégard's 2018 Pommard is a classic of the town. The nose is pretty and exotic, with soy sauce and spices alongside the classic raspberry fruit. The mouth shows dry blackberries, with a long mouthfeel mouthfeel that's elegant but sturdy.
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2019 was the fifth in a string of wonderful vintages in the Northern Rhône…
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2019 was the fifth in a string of wonderful vintages in the Northern Rhône. As Vinous’s Josh Raynolds reported, “2019 was a hot and dry year, but the wines look extremely promising and show an uncanny blend of depth and vivacity.” The regular cuvée of Côte Rôtie “Colline de Couzou” offers a beautiful nose of sweet fruit mixed with aromas of violets and smoke. It is just lovely in the mouth, with plenty of body. Raynolds called it “hefty and broad yet lively as well, finishing with well-judged tannins and strong, floral-driven persistence.”
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Neal Martin on Prunier's 2019s: “they might not oblige superlatives, yet they represent honest…
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Neal Martin on Prunier's 2019s: “they might not oblige superlatives, yet they represent honest and true reflections of their terroirs…considering that these continue to be sold at very reasonable prices, they are certainly worth looking out for.” This exhibits Beaune’s classically middleweight expression of Pinot Noir. The nose is lovely and floral, with nice minerality and a bit of toast. Martin found “a concentrated bouquet with strong rose petal and violet,” and also noted the oak. We’d counsel hanging onto this for a few years so the oak can become a little better acquainted with the fruit, but with some patience this will be an excellent Beaune red.
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